A Little Town… Exploring All that Pharping, Nepal Offers Travelers

Last updated on August 2, 2025 by Shannon

The warmth and humor of the Nepali people are among my best memories from traveling through Nepal and volunteering in a small town outside of Kathmandu, Pharping. 

Across my month living in Pharping, Amrit, the man overseeing my guesthouse during my volunteer experience, became one of my favorite new friends.

Driven and charismatic, Amrit also exuded optimism. His happy dispositions settles deep into your soul and you can feel like fast friends with Amrit.

Settling into Life in Pharping

Amrit’s uncle, Barbajuan owned Family Guesthouse, which is no longer running. Amrit lived at the guesthouse and acted as the “den-mom” for the volunteers living at the guesthouse. Our first days in Pharping will forever be shaped in my memory by Amrit’s joyfulness.

Not only did he help make my month more positive on the whole, but he also made a point to keep us women occupied with hikes and adventures around Pharping. Although we had some problems with VSSN, my volunteer company, Amrit’s welcome was instant and genuine, and he found many opportunities to share with us his infectious laugh.

For the first week of our stay at the guesthouse, Amrit handled everything from cooking to overseeing our time in Pharping.

After that, Carna returned from his village and took over the cooking. With Carna and Amrit presiding over the guesthouse, our meals became a constant source of gusting laughter and cheeky stories of their life and experiences, and what it meant to be a 20-something in Nepal.

Why is Pharping, Nepal Significant?

Pharping is a place of profound spiritual and cultural significance in the heart of the Kathmandu Valley, Nepal. Tucked into hills and valleys, this unassuming town draws both travelers and pilgrims from across the globe due to its rich spiritual heritage, diverse religious sites, and natural beauty.

Pharping is a major pilgrimage destination for both Buddhists and Hindus—the area is steeped in the legacy of Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padmasambhava, a revered Buddhist master who is said to have meditated in the region and attained enlightenment.

His presence permeates Pharping’s landscape, turning the area into a hallowed ground for spiritual seekers. The Asura Cave, where Guru Rinpoche is believed to have meditated, stands as a testament to his spiritual journey, drawing innumerable pilgrims who come seeking blessings and insight.

Both Vajrayogini Temple and the Dakshinkali Temple are also both notable. Even if you don’t come to Pharping for Rinpoche’s legacy, these two temples are worth a visit. Vajrayogini is a site of profound Buddhist practice, while Dakshinkali is a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Kali.

Dakshinkali in particular lures travelers out of Thamel, the backpacker area of Kathmandu, with its ritual animal sacrifices.

Ancient temples, monasteries, and shrines dot the landscape around Pharping. The preservation of these structures not only serves as a window into Nepal’s past but also as an anchor for the present generations to their cultural roots.

Pharping’s spiritual importance is not just historical; it is a living hub of Buddhist practice and study. You’ll find no shortage of monasteries and meditation centers in the area, all of which attract practitioners from various corners of the world.

For those keen, the centers offer retreats, teachings, and meditation sessions. The tranquil surroundings and the association with Guru Rinpoche’s teachings make Pharping a lovely spot for those seeking solace and a deeper understanding of their own minds.

Amidst all of the spirituality, Pharping’s natural beauty acts as a serene backdrop for spiritual contemplation. Hills and valleys surround the town, providing a peaceful and picturesque setting.

As a destination for pilgrims, seekers, and cultural travelers alike, Pharping is a sacred sanctuary where the spiritual and the tangible converge.

What to Do in and Around Pharping, Nepal

Pharping is accustomed to tourists and meditation practitioners, but it’s also far for a well-traveled city in Nepal. This is a small, quiet area that you should approach with respect for its spiritual and cultural significance.

Engage with the local community, interact with authenticity, and be mindful of the practices and customs of the region. Also, dress respectfully at all times, even a tank top is a bit too much skin for this area of Nepal.

Visit Guru Rinpoche’s Meditation Cave

One of the most significant sites in Pharping is the Asura Cave, where Guru Rinpoche is believed to have meditated and achieved enlightenment. The cave exudes a sense of tranquility and spirituality, making it an ideal spot for meditation and reflection.

As you explore the cave and its surroundings, you can gain insights into the spiritual journey of Guru Rinpoche and connect with the rich history of the area.

Hunt Down Vajrayogini Temple

Both Vajrayogini Temple and the Dakshinkali Temple are must-visit sites, each holding their own cultural and spiritual significance.

Vajrayogini Temple offers a classic Newari design and you’ll need some energy and a sense of adventure to reach it. It’s devoted to the Tantric goddess Vajrayogini and is the best of the various Vajrayogini temples scattered around Nepal.

It takes about 500 steps to reach the secluded Vajrayogini Temple, and while the main temple is intact, adjacent structures were damaged during the earthquake and are thus newer and rebuilt. Locals can point out the route, but know that it’s a bit hidden and rural, which is part of what makes it so lovely. You’ll likely be the only tourist there that day!

To get there, pass through Pharping village and onward past the Sakya Tharig Monastery. Park on the road there if you’ve driven and walk to the Guru Rinpoche Cave. From there, follow the stairs up and down—you’ll come out at the Vajrayogini Temple.

Tour the Old and New Dakshinkali Temples

Dakshinkali Temple is a historic and revered Hindu shrine dedicated to the goddess Kali. It holds significant religious importance among Hindus in Nepal. The goddess Kali is a fierce and powerful deity in Hinduism, and the temple is one of the major centers of worship dedicated to her.

The old temple complex features a small shrine housing the image of goddess Kali, often depicted with multiple arms and adorned with a garland of skulls. Locals share the story of this smaller temple complex near the Asura Cave.

The newer settlement of Dasinkali is about 2km outside of Pharping. This area has grown over time due to the influx of pilgrims, tourists, and the increasing urbanization of the Kathmandu Valley. It serves as a gateway to the old temple and has become a hub for visitors traveling to the temple complex.

Dakshinkali has a lot going on—shops, eateries, and small businesses cater to the influx of visitors the temple receives in more recent years. Stalls sell flowers, garlands, and offerings for worship, as well as refreshments for pilgrims and tourists. The settlement also offers facilities like parking lots and restrooms.

And note that Kali is a fearsome goddess, and one of the most notable things about this temple is the animal blood sacrifices of goats, hen, and more. If you’re squeamish, this temple is likely a pass. I’m squeamish and a vegetarian, so I let the rest of our group visit that day.

Pro tip: Avoid visiting on Saturdays, if possible. It’s very busy that day and visitors report waits of one-to-five hours or more for Dharshan of Dakshinkali mata. It’s busy because that’s a day of many sacrifices, but Tuesdays are also busy if you’re keen to see that aspect of the temple.

Even as a traveler visiting Pharping for just a day, though, know that you can observe the rituals, interact with local devotees, and admire the intricate architecture and artwork that adorns these sacred spaces.

Here’s how to hike to both the older and newer Dakshinkali settlements.

Experience Dashain in Pharping

Depending on the time of your visit, you might have the chance to experience local festivals and cultural events.

Dakshinkali Temple, in particular, has vibrant celebrations during festivals like Dashain, which takes place over two weeks in October. Sacrificial rituals are performed here during Dashain, and the temple grounds come alive with a vibrant atmosphere of faith and devotion.

Participating in a festival like this is incredible. It’s a memorable chance to witness the intertwining of spirituality and culture in the daily lives of the local people.

Tour the Monasteries

Pharping is home to a lot of monasteries that offer a glimpse into Nepal’s religious heritage. Many monasteries allow you to enter, explore, and respectfully photograph. Some will have times of the day where that is not permitted, but at other times you can approach the monasteries and ask to look around.

I was lucky to volunteer at a monastery right in the heart of Pharping, so I had the chance to get to know the monastery well, and also respectfully observe the cadence of day-to-day life for the monks living in Pharping.

Book a Meditation Retreat

Pharping’s serene environment provides an ideal setting for meditation and self-reflection. Many monasteries and meditation centers in the area offer meditation retreats and workshops for tourists.

The great thing is, pretty much everyone can attend one. Whether you’re a seasoned practitioner or new to meditation, these retreats offer travelers an opportunity to learn from experienced teachers and immerse in contemplative practices in one of the most spiritual places in the world.

Hike and Enjoy Scenic Views

Pharping sits among many nearby hills and mountains. Its natural surroundings offer great opportunities for hiking, where you’ll have panoramic views.

Hike to the viewpoint of Chandragiri Hill—it offers gorgeous lookouts over the Kathmandu Valley and the surrounding mountains. The hike itself is fun too, given that it’s shady and pretty, and you’ll pass through charming Nepali villages.

If you’re into a more serious day of hiking, and you’re staying in Pharping for the night, you could do the five-hour Champa Devi hike.

Prepare for a Transportation Debacle

Pharping is a smaller town deep in the Kathmandu Valley, which means the last bus out of town left every day between 5 pm and 6 pm. Once on the bus, we would strap on our face masks to protect from the harsh pollution.

Health-wise, Kathmandu and is a polluted city. My cousin developed a prolonged dry cough as a reaction to all of the exhaust pollution that she inhaled during her daily 45 minute walks along the highway to her monastery. It didn’t take much to convince me to invest in a face mask for the regular commutes!

There were upsides to the bus ride thought.

The bus ride between Pharping and Kathmandu is an adventure in and of itself every time we stepped foot on a Nepali bus. Sometimes the buses were perfectly empty and we would sprawl across the torn and dirty seats, each one with springs curling from their sad cushions.

Other times, my cousin and I would wedge our large bodies into the crevice of other humanity penned in the bus. Because of our height, she and I would use one hand to protect the top of our heads, and then use the hand to hang on for dear life as the bus hurled itself around corners, bumped down the lightly paved roads, and snaked through the hillside back Pharping.

Twice I had to make the entire bus ride in that precarious position, an hour-and-a-half hunched over, with my neck cranked sideways, and my eyes fearfully glued to the road in anticipation of the deep potholes that would launch my body into the roof. No one ever said travel was going to be glamorous!

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Having settled in one spot for two months, it allowed us to slip into a lovely pace of life and learn more about ourselves and the local culture than could have been possible just passing through Nepal in a rush.

How to Visit Pharping from Kathmandu

Note that once you’re in Pharping, you can reach many things on foot, but you may also need to hire a taxi (they’re easy to find) to reach some of the further monasteries, and to get to Dashinkali if you’re not keen to walk it.

Where to Stay

Midrange: Solid Rock Lodge & Restaurant is a lovely, serene experience and it offers a garden, free private parking, a terrace, and a restaurant. It’s a great place to spend several nights if you’re hiking and exploring around Pharping. The owners of this guesthouse make the experience memorable.

Midrange: Neydo Hotel is clean, comfortable and located within the Neydo Tashi Choeling Monastery. This means you’re looking at a 30-40 minute walk into Pharping.

Where to Eat

The Haven is among the best restaurants in Pharping, and it’s close to all of things most travelers are seeing while visiting Pharping. Stop here or a lighter bite of cake and coffee to fuel more wanderings.

Kunzang’s Kitchen is located near Dashinkali and is also a great place with a variety of dishes that are well prepared. It’s a friendly spot offering the standard local fare of Tibetan dishes like thukpa and momos, as well as creative dishes like stir fried Asian greens and bibimbop.

How to Get to Pharping

Pharping is located roughly 20km from Kathmandu, and you can reach it via taxi, car, or public bus. One-day tours also run from Kathmandu to Dashinkali and many of the surrounding caves and temples.

Plan an 30-minutes to get there by taxi, or an hour or more to get there from Kathmandu by bus. It all depends on the traffic leaving Kathmandu that day, so it could take up to an hour-and-a-half by bus, or an hour by taxi.

By bus: Use the Ratna Park Bus Station in Kathmandu—buses leave regularly for Pharping, which is the last stop. You’ll need to just ask bus drivers for Pharping and someone will point to the right bus. These buses can get very full, so be prepared for an hour of potentially standing up in a tight space.

By taxi: Ask your Kathmandu accommodation to help you arrange a private taxi to Pharping—you’ll get there in a quick 30 minutes at the right time of day.

Other Things to Do in Nepal

With months in Nepal to explore, here’s a guide to the Poon Hill trek of the Annapurnas, how to visit Chitwan National Park, the ethics of elephant encounters in Nepal, and my experience at a 10-day Vipassana Meditation course on a lake outside of Pokhara.

Heading to Nepal? Check out my full Nepal Travel guide, or pick up a copy of the best Nepali guidebook. And if you’re keen to volunteer, check out the independent volunteer opportunities on Grassroots Volunteering.