Last updated on October 19, 2026 by Shannon
An unassuming country that most Americans couldn’t find on a map, Laos borders some of the most visited countries in the world—Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, China, and Myanmar. And it deserves to be right up there alongside them—but for entirely different reasons. I spent a month here in early 2009, on my first lap of the banana pancake trail, and out of every stop on that well-worn route, Laos is the one I still can’t shake. It’s not the beaches, like Thailand, or the cuisine, like Vietnam, or the temples, like Cambodia—it’s just the people and the pace, and somehow that outlasts all of it. I’ve been back many months in total since, across nearly two decades of traveling Southeast Asia, and it’s never once felt like revisiting the same place twice.
That slowness is also the catch, so it’s worth being honest about who this country is for. If you want polished infrastructure and a packed itinerary of must-see sights, Laos will frustrate you—buses and boats leave when the driver decides, roads are rough, and there isn’t that much “to do” in the conventional sense. Go if you want to slow down and let a place work on you. If you’re short on time, you’re probably better off spending the extra week in Thailand or Vietnam instead, where sightseeing comes easier.
A little history helps explain what you’ll see. Laos was once Lan Xang Hom Khao—the “Kingdom of a Million Elephants Under White Parasols”—a major overland trading power for four centuries before it fragmented into three rival kingdoms: Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Champasak. French colonial rule reunited them into the country you’ll visit today only at the end of the 19th century. You’ll see that French layer everywhere in Luang Prabang: low-slung buildings, warm baguettes from street stalls, and architecture that’s part temple town, part sleepy colonial outpost.
The country has changed since my first trip here, and so have I—but the warmth of the Lao people is the reason I keep coming back, and the reason this guide exists.
Laos at a Glance
- Budget: $20-30/day backpacker, $40-50/day mid-range
- Best time to visit: November-February, when it’s cool and dry; April is the hottest month and worth avoiding if you can
- How long you need: 1 week for Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng, 2 weeks to add the northern loop or the south, 3+ weeks to cross the country overland
- Visa: visa on arrival runs around $40 USD for most nationalities (30 days, extendable)—check current requirements for yours before you fly
- Current safety note: read the Vang Vieng alcohol-safety update below before a night out there
Essential Information When Visiting Laos
You won’t need a converter when visiting Laos as it uses the 220V/50Hz (North American plug and two-prong round), and when you arrive you can pull a large amount of Lao Kip (LAK) (current exchange rate) from the ATM.
If you’re traveling with a good debit card (I swear by Schwab as the best travel debit card that exists), then you should have no problem pulling out cash regularly as you travel around Laos.
Note that many rural areas do not offer an ATM, nor do they readily accept credit cards in all areas, so you should travel with a fair bit of cash when venturing off the tourist travel.
Connectivity is no longer the headache it was when I first wrote this guide in 2009—grab a local SIM or eSIM on arrival (cheap, and sold right at the airport) and you’ll have usable data almost everywhere except the most rural stretches. Just don’t expect Thailand-level speeds once you’re outside Vientiane and Luang Prabang.
Can You Drink the Water in Laos?
Water in Southeast Asia, in general, is not safe to drink. That is absolutely the case in Laos—you cannot and should not consume the local water. In fact, you should use bottled water to brush your teeth, and you should also steer clear of fresh vegetables unless at a tourist restaurant (note: not a tourist street cart—don’t eat fresh veggie sandwiches from the street cards).
In rural areas especially, use a SteriPen or LifeStraw if you can’t drink bottled water (here’s why) and if you’re lax about using sterile water to brush your teeth, be more vigilant if you go off the beaten path.
How to Book Accommodation in Laos
When you’re in Laos, use Agoda as your go-to. Agoda offers accommodation around the world, but its coverage and property reviews are best in SEA. Accommodation in Laos cheap enough that even budget backpackers can often afford a budget guesthouse and private room. That said, Laos has hostels! You can find those listed on Agoda or Booking.com— and Hostelworld covers Laos, too.
If you’re used to Airbnb or VRBO, know that these work a bit differently in Southeast Asia—you can find private properties for rent, but plenty of hotels list on them too. I lean on Agoda and Booking.com for most bookings and have used VRBO for the occasional vacation rental, and all three have worked well across my trips in the region. Read these tips that share exactly how I research and book great hotels and guesthouses along my travels.
Is Laos Vegetarian Friendly?
It’s quite easy for vegetarian travelers to find vegetarian food in Laos. The only consideration is that fish or oyster sauce is used in most dishes. I suggest going with the flow; instead of worrying about the fish sauce, just learn some basic Laotian and ask for your food minus the meat and fish itself.
If you do this, you’re completely fine all throughout the country. Rice will always do in a pinch and fresh, gorgeous fruits abound. Try mangosteens if they’re in season when you’re in Laos!
What to Read Before Visiting Laos
- Ant Egg Soup: The Adventures Of A Food Tourist In Laos: An entertaining read about a woman tracking down traditional recipes in every remote corner of Laos.
- Another Quiet American: Stories of Life in Laos: An informative and fascinating personal account of contemporary Laos.
- The River’s Tale: A Year on the Mekong: Solidly written travelogue shedding light on the importance of the Mekong to the people of Southeast Asia.
- Lonely Planet: You’re likely not only backpacking in Laos, so if you’re in the north, this guide is good because it features Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, and Northern Thailand.
Is Laos Safe to visit?
The one safety update that actually matters right now: in late 2024, a methanol-poisoning incident tied to free-pour shots and mixed drinks in Vang Vieng killed multiple foreign tourists and made international headlines. It’s avoidable—stick to sealed bottles of beer or cider, skip free shots, and skip anything poured from an unmarked bottle, especially at hostel bars. I go into more depth on what happened and how to still enjoy Vang Vieng safely in my full Vang Vieng guide.
Laos is a pretty safe country in terms of physical violence. However, it’s worth noting that there have been past incidents along Route 13 between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng related to uprisings among the Hmong community. Stay informed about the current situation in the area before planning your journey along that route.
And like in any touristy area in the world, theft and scams are a possibility. Laos is a poor country and flashing valuables isn’t a great idea. Keep valuable items close to your body, use a cross-body bag to prevent snatch-and-grab incidents (happens surprisingly often as motorbikes whizz by), avoid walking alone late at night while intoxicated, and maintain situational awareness when handling your wallet during transactions.
If you plan to explore Laos independently on a motorbike, it is crucial to be aware of Laos’ unfortunate distinction as the world’s most heavily bombed country per capita (here’s why).
To stay safe in Laos, stick to established paths and avoid venturing off-road without a local guide at your side. And also note that traffic accidents are one of the number one causes of fatalities for travelers abroad—learn the road rules in Laos and stay alert when motorbiking long distances, always wear a helmet and read this piece to truly understand travel safety.
The fact is, while physical violence may not be a major concern, it is worth noting that getting sick from food handling practices is the most likely thing that will jeopardize your safety. Research and familiarize yourself with tips for staying healthy while traveling and read How to Shit Around the World if you’ve never traveled in developing countries before. It provides practical advice for maintaining good health in developing countries.
The sickest I’ve ever been in my life happened in Laos, and quality healthcare didn’t exist there—it’s still likely that you’d need to me medevaced to Thailand if something major happens. For that reason alone, you should absolutely have travel insurance like IMG Patriot—it’s a must.
How to Get to and Around Laos
Getting In
Most travelers explore the region overland, with Laos as a subsequent stop on the trip, rarely the place their international flight lands. That means you’ll be crossing overland between the countries, likely using long-distance buses, but that varies greatly depending on the border crossing and the topography. You may find “a bus to a boat to a truck” required for even the most “on-the-path” route to and through Laos.
That said, you can also use a budget airline to fly into Vientiane or Luang Prabang from nearby major cities like Siem Reap, Bangkok, Hanoi, and a few others. For longer distances, you’ll find surprisingly cheap flights via the budget airlines, and this can cut significant time off of your travel days. I reliably find great flight deals on Skyscanner or Expedia.
Getting Around Once You’re There
Transportation infrastructure in Laos lags behind neighboring Thailand and Vietnam, though a growing number of affordable “posh” bus options have narrowed that gap in recent years. Buses are the default for in-country travel, and road conditions mean you should budget more time than Google Maps suggests—travel here is sluggish by design, not bad luck.
Route 13, running from Luang Prabang to the Cambodian border via Vientiane and Pakse, has the steadiest flow of buses. The two-day slow boat from the Thai border to Luang Prabang is the other classic route—the regular boat runs about $35, or splurge on a “post boat” that serves lunch and stops at riverside towns along the way for roughly $160.
Whichever you pick, build in slack: schedules exist, but buses and boats often leave whenever the driver decides they’re ready, not when a printed timetable says so. Carry something to read, snacks, and a deck of cards, and treat delays as part of the experience rather than an exception to it.
Within a city or town, tuk-tuks and motorcycle taxis cover anything too far to walk or bike.
How Long You Actually Need
One week covers Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng alone. Two weeks lets you add one more region—either the northern loop through Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi, or the south around the 4,000 Islands—but trying to fit both into two weeks just means more time on buses than anywhere worth stopping. Three weeks or more is what it actually takes to cross the country overland, north to south, the way most backpackers end up routing it anyway.
Picking Your Route by Entry Point
Your entry point decides most of the rest of your route:
Northern Thailand
Enter Laos from Thailand in the far north, through the Chiang Khong/Huay Xai border crossing and either head north by bus to the hill tribe and trekking region of Luang Namtha, or take the two-day slow boat to Luang Prabang.
From Luang Prabang bus to Vang Vieng and onward to Vientiane—then you can either leave back into Thailand, or head south to the 4,000 islands so you can see the endangered Irrawaddy dolphins and easily (ish) exit Laos into Cambodia or southern Thailand. You could also fly onward to Cambodia or Vietnam.
Central Thailand or Vientiane
Enter Laos from Thailand at the Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge and find yourself in Vientiane. From there, you’ll likely have northern Laos in your sights. It’s dead simple to bus to Vang Vieng and onward to Luang Prabang.
From there you have options: a two-day boat ride up the Mekong River to hiking or Northern Thailand, an eight-hour bus ride to trek from Luang Namtha, an off-the-path adventure with a bus ride to Muang Ngoi and pretty Nong Khiaw, or a winding bus ride to Phonsavan to visit the mysterious Plain of Jars (where you can easily exit Laos into Vietnam).
Southern Thailand or Cambodia
Enter southern Laos via a bus from Cambodia or Thailand (both have border crossings). Visit the Champasak Cultural Landscape, a Laos UNESCO site, explore the 4,000 Islands and say hi to the endangered Irrawaddy dolphins, and then prepare for long travel days as you bus into northern Laos. You can easily make it to Vientiane in a couple of days by bus, and then use the recommendations above to explore Northern Laos.
Northern Vietnam
Enter Laos from the east by bus on a pretty rough (but pretty) northern overland route where you’re likely leaving Hanoi or Ninh Bình in Vietnam and heading to Sam Neua in Laos, or you’re leaving Hue, Vietnam bound for Phonsavan. From either of these spots, it’s easy to get to Luang Prabang and pick up the above recommendations.
Flying in from Elsewhere in Southeast Asia
Fly to Laos from pretty much anywhere else in the region into/out of Vientiane or Luang Prabang—flights won’t run every day between every nearby capital, but there are flights to/from Vietnam (Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City), Cambodia (Siem Reap and Phnom Penh), Thailand (Bangkok and Chiang Mai), and even further afield (like Malaysia, etc.) during certain times of year.
Flights in and out of Laos are often way more expensive than others in the region, so be sure you can swing the cost in your travel budget if you hope to skip the long bus rides. I recommend checking flight prices right now for a rough idea of if and how this fits your travel budget.
How Much Does it Cost to Travel in Laos?
Backpacking Laos runs $700 to $1,500 a month depending on your style, with budget travelers landing around $20-30 a day—lower than neighboring Thailand, mostly because Laos’ transportation and tourism infrastructure are less developed. That daily figure swings with what kind of day it is: a quiet wander-around day costs less than a travel day or one built around a big activity like trekking.
Accommodation runs $10-15 a night in guesthouses and budget hostels—a dorm bed can go as low as $5, and a private room without A/C usually stays under $20 anywhere in the country.
Street food and local eateries provide affordable meal options ranging from $2 to $6 per meal. If you eat in a restaurant, or if you splurge on Western coffeeshops, then your food budget ticks up quickly (think $8 or up for a meal). These baseline costs give a good estimate of why and how your daily budget can come in so low when budget traveling in Laos.
Step up to private rooms in guesthouses or small hotels and a mix of street food and real restaurants, and mid-range travel runs $40-50 a day. Half of that is the room—$18 gets you air-conditioning, $35 gets you something genuinely nice, and traveling as a couple or a group cuts this down fast.
Add nicer restaurants and the occasional splurge and you’re at $55-70 a day. Real luxury exists too, with rooms running past $200 a night, but there’s not much reason to spend that much here—Laos doesn’t reward a bigger budget with a bigger experience the way, say, Bali or Bangkok does.
Although Southeast Asia has several budget airlines, the routes in and out of Vientiane and Luang Prabang are never rock-bottom—use these tips to find cheap flights on your travels.
With all of that said, Laos is a poor country, and tourism dollars are a pivotal part of the Laotian economy. Travelers should support the local economy whenever possible—that means avoiding excessive haggling and choosing locally-run businesses.
Don’t forget to book travel insurance for your trip—a great policy provides coverage in case of medical emergencies, lost or stolen gear, adventure sports riders, and more. I’ve used IMG Global for more than a decade highly recommend it!
Best Foods to Try in Laos
The national dish of Laos is larb (also known as laap) which is marinated meat or fish prepared with herbs and greens, and can be quite spicy. Some dishes will have a similar profile to those found in Thailand, like spicy green papaya salad (known as tam mak hoong) and kai yang (grilled chicken). Most dishes will have elements of galangal, lemongrass, and padaek (fish sauce) and are served with sticky rice, which is eaten by hand.
Similar to other Southeast Asian countries, Laos has a strong street food culture. Khao jee is a popular street food, and very similar to banh mì in Vietnam—it’s a baguette sandwich prepared with fresh French-style white bread, fresh vegetables, and some sort of meat. Khao piak sen is also quite delicious—it’s a soup similar to Vietnam’s classic pho.
Note that food sanitation standards in Laos are not up to par with neighboring Thailand, so eating fresh vegetables (like those in the sandwiches) carries a risk for waterborne illnesses.
Watch closely how the locals prepare your food (is it being washed in fresh water, or a communal water bucket, is it out of the sun and changed frequently? Many food issues in Laos (and the rest of Southeast Asia) can be solved when you heed the first rule of street food: Eat where locals eat.
How to Travel Responsibly
Like other countries in Southeast Asia, Laos has some real ethical gray areas for responsible travelers, and elephants are the biggest one. My issue isn’t with domesticating elephants so much as how it’s often done—and Laos hasn’t built up the oversight Thailand has around its better sanctuaries. I recommend skipping elephant experiences here entirely and saving that for Thailand, where there are some great, better-regulated options.
Laos is also among the more conservative countries in the region, so women should wear tops that cover their shoulders and bottoms to the knees. And the poverty here is very real—every dollar you spend locally and intentionally goes far in helping locals even something simple like medical treatment, which is scarce.
Lastly, the Lao people are quiet and have social rules about excessive public outburst—bargain respectfully.
You should also limit your use of single-use plastic bottles—Laos’ infrastructure is not strong enough to guarantee it won’t just end up floating in the Mekong River. Bring your own bottle and a SteriPen, if possible, and a refillable water bottle so that you can at least buy huge jugs when you’ll be in one spot for a few days and just refill from it.
Positive actions you can take include spending money with local tourism operators, including some fantastic social enterprises operating in Laos. Read our complete guide to Responsible Travel in Southeast Asia.
The Best Things to Do in Laos
Laos rewards slow travel more than a checklist, but there’s still a real list of places worth going out of your way for—waterfalls, cave systems, trekking regions, and a couple of sites, like the Plain of Jars, where knowing what to watch for matters as much as knowing where to go. I’ve pulled that out into its own full guide so it has room to actually say something useful about each one, rather than compete for space with currency exchange rates:
Read: The 15 Best Things to Do in Laos →
- My Favorite Things to Do in Luang Prabang
- Visiting the Stunning Turquoise Waters at Kuang Si Falls
- Finding the Retired Buddhas at Laos’ Pak Ou Caves
- Stories of Culture & History in Luang Prabang, Laos
- A Laid-Back Laos, and Our Shrinking World
- A Slice of Life on the Mighty Mekong
More Laos Stories from the Blog
I traveled around Laos on multiple trips spanning several months in total during my time backpacking Southeast Asia. These are a few of my favorite places and moments from those trips, in more depth than a guide like this one has room for.
No posts