A Little Water… Floating Gardens, Fishing, and Farming on Inle Lake

Last updated on July 27, 2023

Growing up I didn’t much care about the word “ecosystem.” I took many classes on Florida history (they made us study state history extensively—at least twice before graduation!), and the Florida Everglades was one of those places I took for granted until I reached adulthood, started to care more about the environment and realized “Holy cow, there are some intricate and interesting ecosystems!”

The Fishermen of Inle Lake, Myanmar

This epiphany carried over to the present, and into my days navigating the marshy waters, thin canals and open expanse of rippling waters on Inle Lake in Myanmar last month. The most iconic photos of Inle Lake picture the fishermen, their conical nets resting on long wooden boats as the men paddle with one leg wrapped like a vine around the wooden oar digging into the placid lake waters.

It’s a beautiful, practical custom that, in all its “foreignness” to the Western eye, pulled my focus as I marveled at the old-school nets in place of a modern fishing pole, the lazy motion of leg-led rowing and not a boat motor.

The fishermen stand on the bow of the boat so they can see down to the lake floor, and their legs are a powerful way to more easily row through the marshy weeds that grow nearly to the surface since Inle Lake averages just seven feet deep.

But that’s just one tiny, indelible piece of life on Inle Lake.

The Unique Inle Lake Cultures

The productive ecosystem around this shallow 44.9 square mile lake created a separate lake culture, different from the Bamar majority in Burma, and even different from the Shan minority group, even though Inle Lake is within Burma’s Shan State. Instead, an Intha culture and language grew, specific to Inle, where the lake and its ecosystem have allowed the culture to thrive.

The villages embraced their creativity over the years in order to make this lake environment their home. Myths even surround the founding of the culture—some believe a former king banished part of the Royal Army from Burmese land, and to keep their word they created moved onto water! Floating land created from dried and hardened weeds and floating hyacinth secure the floating huts and bamboo villages to one fixed spot.

No joke, floating land.

And once the Intha mastered the floating land, then agriculture became a cinch—after all, they have an endless supply of water. So, as our driver navigated the canal waters, I watched farmers slosh around their cultivated square farms of land, marveling that oxen and humans both easily traipsed around the water farms.

Some farms are kept on much thinner land, and miles of fragrant tomato plants tumbled over each other on the lakes surface, beautiful birds dipping into the canals near the gardens when they spotted fish from above. So, now you’re wondering, okay, they have stilt houses, floating land for farming, and gardens, but why doesn’t it all just float away?

I puzzled over this mystery, I even spent time musing out loud about hundreds of 10 foot tall bamboo sticks poking out from the lake in every direction. Ah, the sea of khaki colored bamboo affix a garden to the lake surface. Then, the gardens are tended, sold, and moved if need be in the future.

Genius!

The entire lake sustains a purpose-built community around the ecosystem.

Fishing.

Crops.

Animals.

Temples.

And the seagulls.

Feeding the seagulls was a highlight of the trip. Over the past five months I watched Ana guffaw with laughter at random moments, and smile with patience and curiosity as locals explained the inner workings of something to her, and even frown with concern at the treatment of street animals.

The seagulls on Inle Lake brought her sheer joy. She abandoned all thought of being a serious preteen and she and her friend threw chunks of deep-fried dough with childish abandon. The birds swooped down to pluck chunks out of their hands and noisily fought over bits flung into the air. And as the sun set over Inle Lake, we cozied into our warm blankets and all enjoyed the bite of cool in the air and the squawk of birds tailing our speeding longboat.

Far from subtle, behind us a maze of saffron and pumpkin exploded into the sky nearest the setting sun, while a quiet rose tint settled on the surrounding mountains and we jetted back into the small town center for fresh dinner and a warm bed.

Visiting Inle Lake in Myanmar

Although now is not the time for mass tourism to Myanmar, if you’re in the country and exploring, here’s what you should know before traveling to Inle Lake.

Best Time to Visit Inle Lake

Inle Lake has a tropical climate and can be quite hot and humid during the day, so pack lightweight clothing and plenty of sunscreen. The best time to visit is from October to February, when the weather is cooler and dryer.

Best Markets on Inle Lake

The most popular way to explore Inle Lake is by boat, which can be arranged through local tour operators or through your hotel. Be sure to negotiate the price of the boat in advance, and be aware that some boats may not be in the best condition. Some of what you might negotiate is the markets you’ll visit. In fact, Inle Lake is famous for its floating markets, which are held on different days of the week at different locations around the lake. Be sure to check the schedule in advance and arrive early for the best selection of goods. Here are a few noteworthy ones:

1. Nampan Floating Market: This market is held on Thursdays and is one of the most popular markets on the lake. It is known for its wide variety of goods, including fresh produce, textiles, and handmade crafts.
2. Indein Floating Market: This market is held on Saturdays and is located on the western shore of the lake. It is known for its traditional Intha village setting and offers a great opportunity to see local life and culture.
3. Mine Thauk Floating Market: This market is held on Sundays and is located on the southern end of the lake. It offers a wide variety of goods and is a great place to find traditional Shan textiles and other handicrafts.
4. Ywama Floating Market: This market is held on Fridays and is located in the largest village on the lake, Ywama. It is a great place to find local food and drink, as well as traditional handicrafts.
5. Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery Market: This market is held every morning, except on full moon days, and is located in front of the Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery. It is known for its traditional Shan textiles, handmade crafts, and local food.

How to Make a More Sustainable Trip to Inle Lake

Tourism around Inle Lake has grown rapidly in recent years, putting a strain on the local environment and communities. Be mindful of the impact of tourism and to support sustainable tourism practices such as staying in eco-friendly accommodations, and engage in responsible tourism activities.

Where to Stay in Inle Lake

Although you might assume you’ll just book a quick guesthouse, which is what I did in Inle Lake, you have some really cool option, too! Here are some ideas of where to stay, and the type of accommodation you can consider—I recommend booking these through Booking.com.

1. Guesthouses: There are a variety of budget-friendly guesthouses and homestays in and around the lake, which offer a more authentic and local experience. These places are often run by local families and offer a more intimate and personal touch.
2. Mid-range Hotels: There are many mid-range hotels and resorts around the lake, which offer comfortable accommodation and a range of facilities such as swimming pools, restaurants, and spas. These options often have great views of the lake and are a good choice for those looking for a balance of comfort and value.
3. Luxury Resorts: For those looking for a more upscale experience, there are several luxury resorts on the lake that offer high-end amenities and services, such as private villas, spas, and fine dining restaurants. These resorts are often located in more secluded areas and offer a more exclusive and private experience.
4. Eco-friendly Accommodation: Inle Lake is a fragile ecosystem, for visitors who are concerned about the environmental impact of tourism, there are several eco-friendly accommodations options such as eco-lodges and sustainable resorts, that use renewable energy sources, and have implemented recycling and waste management programs, and promote sustainable tourism practices.
5. Floating Hotels: For a unique experience, consider staying in a floating hotel on the lake. These boats offer comfortable accommodation and great views of the lake, but they may not be as comfortable as the other options, and they may not have the same facilities and services.