Last updated on August 1, 2025 by Shannon
My niece and I planned out much of our travels in Myanmar around the ability to meet up with friends in the country and based on timing issues, we had four extra days and needed to stick close to Yangon, Burma’s capital city.
Based on the recommendation of fellow travelers, we headed straight to the unassuming Hpa-An, a charming riverside town.
Surrounded by dramatic limestone karst mountains, it’s located is about six hours southwest of Yangon, and about four hours from the Mae Sot border with Chiang Mai.
It’s location means it’s accessible, but not touristy. You have to put in some effort to visit Hpa-An, and that’s how it should be. The town’s varied things to do are marked by their beauty and solitude, and being a tad hard to get there means this beauty will last.
Should You Visit Hpa-an?
Hpa-An hit on each of my anticipations: small, rural, markets, people and countryside hikes. The town lacks the wow-factor of some places in Myanmar—you won’t find the ancient temples of Bagan here, the varied foods and landmarks of Yangon, or the novelty of Inle Lake’s fishermen.
I can’t sell you on Hpa-An as an adventure junkie location, and this petite town may never find its way into a glossy travel brochure. Instead, the town is sweet and light; it’s a place with friendly faces and days spent chatting with my niece on long hikes through rice paddies and painted caves. It’s a place where one single thing to do could take the entire day if you slow down and enjoy the surrounding nature.
The Case for Visiting Rural Myanmar
Small towns are windows into a country’s soul; this is the case in every country I’ve ever visited, my own included. People are more accessible in small towns, it’s easy to walk through the tiny neighborhoods, the cadence of life slows down and locals have the time and inclination for a friendly wave, even a spot of conversation if they speak English.
Mornings are my personal time during this trip through Southeast Asia with my niece Ana. I spend time reflecting, writing, and planning, usually over a quiet coffee.
In Hpa-An, with no internet in the hotel (sometimes that is a real blessing) and a hankering for fresh coffee (as opposed to the instant variety offered freely in the hotel), I headed out at sunrise to visit the busy morning market visible out the window of my guesthouse.
Morning air is fresher than any other time in the day. The nighttime breezes clear out the scents and sounds. Sunrise wipes the slate clean and shoppers and vendors at the dawn market in Hpa-An buzzed with delighted chatter.
Locals truck, bicycle, and walk in fresh vegetables from the countryside and by dawn the veggies and fruits are stacked and ready for purchase. Women wield their cleavers and freshly dice up the day’s meat supply for the town.
And being the lone tourist around, a grin split my face while juicy fresh watermelon dripped from my hand as I watched the locals in Hpa-An greet the morning with smiles, enthusiasm, and the rhythms of long-established routine that plays out like an exquisitely timed ballet.
Hours later, one of the helpful owners of the Soe Brothers Guesthouse dropped Ana and me off at a wooden hut plopped near a field deep in the countryside with a grinning old woman selling bits and bots of soda and snacks to anyone making a pilgrimage to the cave shrines.
He gave us clear instructions on getting back to town, a good call on his part because for the rest of the day, the only clear English we spoke was to each other!
With a jaunty wave and a “see ya later,” Ana and I were left with a hand-drawn map in our hands showing a path through rice paddies to various caves and temples awash with paintings and Buddha statues, and a nearby swimming hole popular with the locals.
I handed the reins over to Ana; at 11 she’s old enough to lead us around our map to the various spots and it’s more fun for her if she has some control, particularly on a day of exploring paths, caves, temples, nooks, and crannies.
We found the Kawkathaung and Ruby caves filled to overflowing with Buddhas. Paintings and signs carved into the rock. Small statues filled naturally formed rock crevices.
We found a small artificial pool of clear water diverted from the surrounding rice paddies, and floating restaurants popular with local teens who arrived three to a motor-bike and they flowed into the inlet with the giggling enthusiasm, jostling and joking common to just about any gathering of 16 to 20 year-olds the world over.
We opted to dip our feet instead of swimming because we would have had to swim fully clothed . . . and not because I forgot to pack swimsuits, but rather because jumping around in a western-style bathing suit would have prompted jaws dropping, uncomfortable stares and basically would have been a great big taboo in modest Myanmar.
Local women swim in their longyi skirts and maintain a lot of skin coverage!
And by sitting on the edge with some of the teens, they were able to pepper us with questions spoken in an enthusiastic version of English, augmented with charades, and the ensuing antics as we attempted to communicate left us all in giggles.
Beautiful expanses of bridges panned the flooded rice paddies, and huge grins split the faces of locals when as we got ourselves lost in the small dirt streets weaving through villages.
As the day ended, Ana spied a staircase near the wooden hut that began our adventures.
Like modern-day explorers, she set off with enthusiasm and a breakneck pace up the winding stone staircase.
At the top, we looked out from a crumbling temple.
We sat and chatted about our day, our plans, and life as we watched late afternoon sunlight spill over the hills and valleys around Hpa-An.
For my niece, I thought maybe she would be disappointed by the slow pace and small adventures. She surprised me though, because she felt the day was a win all around because she was able to sleep in, help plan/navigate throughout the day see some things without time pressures and rushing, and she was back to the hotel early enough to read her book (she was reading the first Hunger Games book and, understandably, addicted).
Some days, we’d wake up early, have a full day of sightseeing, other days of marathon 12 hour bus rides. So, I get it.
My niece wanted a casual day, with some sightseeing but framed by downtime and sleep. Hpa-An was the perfect spot for all of these things.
So, without a lot of fanfare we walked back down those well-worn stone steps, followed the dirt path back to the main road, and hailed a passing truck willing to drop us in town.
It’s not the most remarkable of days. But it stands out in my memory for its simplicity. The company couldn’t have been better, and it’s one of those days I really only discovered once I slowed down and savored cadence of life in each new town.
Best Things to Do in Hpa-An
Although it’s best to plan a slower pace of travel when you arrive in Hpa-An, there are a number of things to see and do in the region. You don’t need to book any of these in advance—your guest house will easily arrange a tuk-tuk or taxi you take you around the various sights.
Explore the Bat Cave (Kawt Ka Taung Cave)
Hidden within the depths of Kawt Ka Taung Cave lies a captivating spectacle—an immense colony of bats. As the sun begins to set, thousands of bats take flight, creating a mesmerizing dance in the evening sky. Even if you don’t see this natural phenomenon, there are many interesting details in the cave.
To reach the Bat Cave, hire a local guide or take a short taxi ride from Hpa-An, which is approximately 8 kilometers away. Aim for arriving by 5:30pm if you’re hoping to see the bats—but confirm the time with your guesthouse as the timing shifts a bit with the seasons.
Visit Kyauk Kalap
Just a stone’s throw from Hpa-an, Kyauk Kalap is a sight that seems straight out of a fairytale. This pagoda stands gracefully atop a tall limestone rock in the center of a serene lake, defying gravity and offering a picture-perfect setting. Visitors are drawn to the peaceful ambiance and breathtaking views that make Kyauk Kalap a must-visit destination.
To reach Kyauk Kalap, take a short taxi ride from Hpa-an, which is around 10 kilometers away.
Wake Up for the Morning Market
Start your day early with a visit to the morning market, a vibrant hub of local life. It’s best to go around sunrise when the market is most active. Here, you’ll find fresh produce, local delicacies, and an array of goods.
It’s a great place to observe local life and try some traditional breakfast dishes. The market is centrally located and easily accessible on foot from most parts of the town.
Take a Boat Ride along the Thanlwin River
Embarking on a leisurely boat ride along the meandering Thanlwin River is an enchanting way to immerse yourself in the natural beauty that surrounds Hpa-an.
The journey presents panoramic views of rolling hills, verdant landscapes, and riverside villages, allowing travelers to connect with the region’s idyllic countryside. Boat rides can be arranged from the Hpa-an Jetty or through local tour agencies.
You can also taken in sunset on the river instead—or in addition! The best sunset spots are near the Shwe Yin Myaw Pagoda or along the riverbanks where local cafes are situated. Grab a drink, find a comfortable spot, and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere as the sun dips below the horizon.
Climb Mount Zwegabin
The hike to the summit of Mount Zwegabin is a bucket-list experience in Hpa-An. Scaling this majestic peak rewards you with sweeping vistas of the town below, mist-covered valleys, and lush greenery as far as the eye can see.
The journey also offers an opportunity to visit monasteries along the way, adding a spiritual touch to the adventure.
The starting point for the hike is located at the base of Mount Zwegabin, which can be reached by a short taxi ride from Hpa-An.
Explore Saddan Cave
Step into the mysterious world of Saddan Cave. This expansive limestone cave system beckons with its grand chambers, stalactites, and stalagmites that evoke a sense of wonder.
Venture deep into the darkness, guided by the glow of your flashlight, and discover hidden underground rivers and awe-inspiring rock formations. Access the cave by hiring a boat from Hpa-an Jetty or taking a taxi to the cave entrance.
Discover the Lumbini Garden
Seek tranquility and spiritual solace in the serene surroundings of Lumbini Garden. This meticulously maintained park features lush gardens adorned with countless Buddha statues, each exuding a sense of serenity and enlightenment.
Stroll along the paths, find a quiet spot for meditation, or simply bask in the serene ambiance. Lumbini Garden is a short distance from Hpa-an and can be reached by taxi.
Visit Kawgun Cave
Step back in time as you enter the ancient realm of Kawgun Cave, where history and art intertwine. The cave’s walls and ceilings are adorned with thousands of intricate carvings and Buddha images, representing centuries of devotion and craftsmanship.
Exploring the cave is like walking through a living museum, where you can marvel at the rich cultural heritage of the region.
Kawgun Cave is accessible via a short taxi ride from Hpa-an.
Additional Things to Do in Hpa-An
- Yathaypyan Cave: This cave is not just a natural wonder but a historical treasure trove. Inside, you’ll find ancient Buddhist frescoes and inscriptions. The cave is about a 20-minute drive from Hpa-An’s center. It’s advisable to bring a flashlight and wear sturdy shoes for exploring the uneven terrain inside the cave. The entrance is free, but a small donation is appreciated.
- Kan Thar Yar Lake: A tranquil escape from the town’s hustle, this lake is perfect for a leisurely stroll or a picnic. Located just a few kilometers from the town center, it’s easily accessible by bike or tuk-tuk. The lake is surrounded by small cafes and eateries, making it a nice spot for an evening snack while enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. And taking a sunset shot here is nearly as iconic now as the bridge in Mandalay.
- Hpa-An Night Market: Immerse yourself in local culture at the night market, bustling with activity from early evening. Here, you can sample traditional Burmese street food, like Mohinga (fish noodle soup) or sweet snacks. The market is located in the town center and is within walking distance from most guesthouses. It’s a great place to interact with locals and observe the daily life of Hpa-An.
- Taung Wine Mountain: For breathtaking panoramic views, hike up Taung Wine Mountain. Start early in the morning to avoid the heat and reach the summit for a spectacular sunrise—you’ll need to arrive at the base at 5am to guarantee you make it to the top for sunrise (and it takes about 30 minutes to get there from Hpa-An). Bring a headlamp for a sunrise hike.
The hike takes about 2 hours and is moderately challenging—some can book up the stairs in 30 minutes, but most will need 45 minutes to hike to the summit. Bring water, snacks, and a camera to capture the stunning scenery. And other travelers advise that you don’t follow the Google map path—it won’t lead to the entrance. Allow a local driver to direct you to Taung Ka Lay.
- Shwe Yin Myaw Pagoda: Situated on the banks of the Thanlwin River, this pagoda is a serene spot, especially at sunset. The golden pagoda, with the river as a backdrop, offers a picturesque setting. It’s a short walk from the town center, and visiting in the late afternoon allows you to witness the changing colors of the sky and the river.
- Traditional Kayin Weaving Village: A visit to a Kayin weaving village offers a glimpse into the traditional craft of the Kayin people. These villages are located around Hpa-An, and you can arrange a visit through local tour operators or tuk-tuk drivers. It’s a unique opportunity to see the intricate process of weaving and to purchase authentic, handwoven textiles directly from the artisans. You’ll need help from your guesthouse to arrange a guide.
Visiting Hpa-An
Where to stay
Budget | Hpa-An is about five hours south of Yangon, and budget travelers can’t go wrong with the Soe Brothers Guesthouse (it’s one of the few guesthouses in town, so it was easy to get dropped directly here!).
Midrange | If you’re looking for something budget but a bit nicer, opt for Keinnara Hpa-An.
Luxury | For a touch of luxury, Hpa-An Lodge provides a comfortable stay with stunning views of Mount Zwegabin. The lodge offers facilities like an outdoor pool and a high-quality restaurant. It’s located a bit outside the town, so it’s perfect for those seeking tranquility. They also provide bike rentals, which make it super easy to explore the surrounding areas.
What to eat
Hpa-An’s food scene is a delightful exploration of Burmese flavors. For an authentic taste, try San Ma Tau, known for its traditional Burmese dishes and excellent tea leaf salad—hands down of the the most unique Burmese dishes.
Veranda Youth Community Cafe offers a cozy ambiance and a mix of local and Western dishes, perfect for a relaxed meal.
And you can always visit and revisit the Hpa-An Night Market, where you can indulge in street food like grilled fish, Mohinga, and sweet Burmese pancakes.
For a scenic dining experience, head to Zwekabin Restaurant, offering stunning views of Mount Zwegabin and a variety of local cuisine.
Don’t miss trying the local specialty – Hpa-An’s unique style of noodle soup. Most restaurants in Hpa-An are reasonably priced, but it’s always good to have cash as credit cards are rarely accepted.
Transportation Options in Hpa-An
Navigating Hpa-An offers a blend of convenience and adventure. The town itself is compact enough for walking, but for longer distances, there are several options.
Tuk-tuks are ubiquitous and affordable, perfect for short trips or day-long rentals. Negotiate the fare in advance; a short ride should cost around 1,000-2,000 Kyat, and it costs about 20,000 Kyat for one day.
Motorbike rentals are available at many guesthouses and rental shops, typically costing about 10,000 Kyat per day. Note that you must have a license to drive a motorbike in your home country for your travel insurance to cover you in case of an accident.
Bicycles are a serene way to explore, with rentals costing around 2,000 Kyat per day.
For visiting surrounding caves and villages, consider hiring a private car or joining a guided tour, which can be arranged through local travel agencies or your accommodation.
Tips for Navigating Hpa-An
When exploring Hpa-An, start early to avoid the midday heat. Dress modestly, especially when visiting pagodas and religious sites.
English is not widely spoken, so learning a few basic Burmese phrases can be helpful. Carry a physical map or download an offline map on your phone, as internet connectivity can be spotty and signage is scarce outside the city.
Be mindful of the town’s conservative culture; respectful interaction with locals goes a long way. For the best experiences, consider hiring a local guide for in-depth insights into the town’s history and culture.
Always have small Kyat denominations handy for tuk-tuk rides, market purchases, and temple donations.
How to get to Hpa-An
Buses run to Hpa-An from Yangon (seven hours on a good day). Private cars can make it under six hours.
To get to Kyaiktiyo, the Golden Rock, you ride in the back of a truck for a very optimistic five-to-seven hours. I’ve heard lovely things about the boat to and from Mawlamyine, but we did the truck option to the Golden Rock.
You can also organize transport and tours that take in Hpa-An and Kyaiktiyo through Viator.
How to book things to do
Book your tours through the Soe Brothers Guesthouse. They speak great English and can organize tours to Mount Zwegabin, any of the surrounding caves, and everything there is to do in town.
Even if you stay at a hotel outside of town, book your activities through Soe Brothers. The morning market is great and a great place to grab a street-food breakfast if you eat meat (vegetarians are better off at the restaurant/shop just near the Soe Brothers).
What to read
I used the Lonely Planet Myanmar throughout our month in the country and it was, at times, the only way I could figure out English language information on logistics.
If you plan to explore off-the-path, having a guidebook is invaluable when figuring out whether a train, bus, or pickup truck is your best transport option.
You should also bring one of the fascinating books about Myanmar to read as you travel there—it will lend you insight into the culture and people. I recommend The River of Lost Footsteps: Histories of Burma and Finding George Orwell in Burma—each on offers a different but needed perspective on such a contradictory country.
Onward Travel
Having spent years backpacking Southeast Asia across many trips, here’s how you should plan your time in the following locations.
Thailand » Chiang Mai | Digital Nomad Costs | Elephant Tourism | Loy Krathong | Songkran | Bo Sang | Transportation, Explained | Fun Facts
Vietnam » Hoi An | Eating Vegetarian
Laos » Luang Prabang | Gibbon Experience | Mekong River | Kuang Si Waterfalls | Pak Ou Caves | Vang Vieng
Cambodia » Angkor Wat | Apsara Dancing
Myanmar » Bagan | Inle Lake | Yangon | Hpa-An | Eating Vegetarian | Spirituality | Burmese Hospitality
Southeast Asia Backpacking Guide
A download on everything I learned while backpacking the region. From Thai beaches to remote towns in Laos, Myanmar, Vietnam, and more—here’s where to go, my favorite places, and everything you should know before you go.
Nice pics… I just spent 4 months in se asia, I missed Myanmar though, I hear the Burmese are some of the friendliest ppl in Asia.
I really love SEA as a place to travel and if you make it back, and if the country is still doing well, I really enjoyed the people in Myanmar and traveling there! :)
I had heard about Burma but never visited there. I was not even knowing that it is a nice adventurous place. I think you have enjoyed your trip a lot. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Adventure is in my blood. I like historical places and I am inspired from Buddha. Unfortunately I have not visited Burma, but after reading your post I feel that I have been there. Thanks for sharing.
Sounds like you found a great way to spend a few days near Yangon. Will have to add this to the itinerary for Burma!
It’s worth it! I suggest either going south to Hpa-An, or going north of Mandalay — one of those two routes will get you nicely out in the countryside. Safe travels! :)
Every time I read a post about Burma I get more excited to be going there! The scenery looks breathtaking. I’m definitely looking forward to exploring some of the little towns. :)
The little towns are wonderful! Consider heading north of Mandalay as well if you have the time — I didn’t but reports from other travelers say that it’s spectacular! :)
This is my first visit to your blog, Shannon! So glad to find you. Love your storytelling English! Signing up for your updates :) Thanks for a beautiful introduction to Hpa-an. Yes, you have convinced me to steer a backpack in that direction ;) Will read through your blog and tuneup for your updates. The photos are great! Say hi to Ana!
Hi Memographer! Sorry for the late reply, this one slipped through the cracks because I really do respond to everyone. Do you have plans to visit Burma soon? The country exceeded my expectations on the whole — so culturally distinct from neighboring countries in SEA with a beautiful warmth and openness from the Burmese people. Thanks for stopping in, weighing in, and saying hi! :)
Like Spencer said; I’ve heard good reports on Burma as well, but have never run across any of my travel-friends who have been there.
And you know; maybe you’ve covered this in previous blog posts, but I’ve always wanted to ask you…what safety/security steps do you take to research a country/area before you travel there? We’ve all read those stories about hikers/travelers who accidentally crossed into the wrong country, etc. I think they even made a movie about Burma being one of those a few years ago. I was just curious because while you pick sights to visit that aren’t always the norm, you must be doing research because you have had little trouble on your adventures.
Wow, woefully late response from me, sorry! Thanks for weighing in….Burma was a very specific choice because I knew a handful of travelers who had done it, I had Western friends living in the country, and that sort of thing — so I knew that although there are international tensions, and plenty of conflict regions on the borders, tourism is actually very, very safe if you go the “tourist” route and fly into the country (which is really the only legal way into Burma, people cross over the borders, but those are the conflict zones and they technically should not).
As for planning — up until this point I have visited places on the recs and stories of other travelers mostly, and a lot in Asia, which I consider generally very safe all over. My dad keeps me posted on the current news situation of anywhere I am/am heading to, and beyond that, I go with emailing someone who has just been there. When I am in a country, I email my current hotel and route/plans to my dad on a very, very regular basis at his request). Central America was one of the more dangerous places…but to be honest, my naivety likely overshadowed my dad’s warnings back in 2010…I am far more hesitant now to return to Guatemala and Honduras than I was two years ago! And to give you one more piece of the equation, as a solo female, there are regions of the world I have generally avoided (Middle East, Northern Africa)…and even though I know other solo women who have been there, it’s a fear point for me so I prefer not to go until I have a travel friend of some sort. :)
I hear alot of good reports about Burma. Might have to put it on my travel wishlist if your photos are anything to go by.
It’s a beautiful country to visit, and if you are willing to give up some control because of the weak tourism infrastructure, it can be wonderful!
Beautiful photos Shannon! Alas, we didn’t make it to Hpa-An nor Kyaiktio during our visit. An excuse to return!
BTW…I love how 5-7 hours is considered “close” to Yangon. As a Westerner myself, 5 hours used to seem like an eternity. Now that I’m following in your footsteps to become a seasoned traveler, “It’s taking forever” and “Are we there yet” doesn’t start until 12 hours! :)
Hope all is well back home.
Good point! If I can stay under the six hour mark, I consider the bus ride a cinch now, but before I remember being shocked at the thought of a 13 hour overnight! Heh, oh how perspectives shift! You guys will love it if you make it back there, it’s slow and sweet and a great stop, safe travels, you must be heading back soon! :)
I awoke to the news on the radio this morning, talking about an Australian Diplomat visiting the Burmese opposition leader, and thought, “I wonder if A Little Adrift are still in Burma”. Then here was your post!
Glad it was timely! There is so much going on in Burma right now, my niece and I had a wonderful visit but are sadly back home now. But that means more stories of Burma are coming! Cheers and hope you are well :)
I can’t see anything but the camel now too–what a great observation!
Right! I was very impressed, I was just focusing on the steps up the mountainside but I was suitably impressed that Ana was looking around enough to notice! :)