Nepal Travel Guide

Last updated on May 20, 2024 by Shannon

Nepal is sometimes overlooked by travelers because they figure it’s an extension of India; it’s not. Nepal has a beautiful, fascinating, unique history. The Nepali are incredibly friendly and fun—learn a bit of Nepali and they will love you for it. Nepal is a mecca for outdoorsy type travelers because of the Himalayan mountains that offer up some of the best trekking opportunities in Asia. In fact, Nepal boasts eight of the 10 highest peaks in the world.

Traveling in Nepal is generally safe, meaning travelers of all types—solo travelers, backpackers, families, and more—can find things to enjoy without the worry. Nepal also attracts both outdoorsy types and volunteers in equal measure, so although there are a fair few generally tourists there for the culture, most are there on a mission to see some nature, or volunteer their skills locally.

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Why Visit Nepal

For many years, the dicey power situation made working remotely from Nepal tricky— there used to be few as eight hours of power every day, but that changed in 2016. With that no longer the case, Kathmandu continues to add a number of incredible cafes and guesthouses ideal for travelers and digital nomads. Plus, even when there were major power outages, it couldn’t mask the absolute delight of traveling in Nepal.

I loved visiting Nepal and I loved learning about its culture and language. I highly recommend spending at least two weeks to even scrape the top of the many things to do in Nepal.

Nepal is still recovering from the April 2015 earthquake, though it’s much further along than most travelers assume. Homes, schools, and roads are largely rebuilt, but some of the historic temples and palaces in the Kathmandu Valley are still under restoration more than a decade later.

In fact, I am a firm supporter of responsible tourism as a way to help Nepal continue developing. You can skip straight to the responsible volunteering & travel section, or to the city guides.

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Things to Know Before Traveling Nepal

Nepal is among the least developed countries in the world according to the U.N. This means travelers will see drastic differences between life in the cities and life in the small villages. The culture and people have a resilient spirit, however, and it’s a beautiful place to visit.

Nepal’s history stretches back more than 2,500 years, though much of that early history is unrecorded. Many of the UNESCO sites you’ll visit date to the 1400s. A monarchy ruled the country until 2008, when Nepal became a democratic republic—worth knowing, since politics here can still be unstable and in the headlines during your visit.

Modern Nepal is shaped by its neighbors: you’ll see clear influences from India, Tibet, China, and Mongolia across more than 30 ethnic groups, each with its own language and traditions. The country is predominantly Hindu, with deep threads of Buddhism and animism woven through daily life—part of what makes travel here so rich.

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Fast Facts About Nepal Travel

Nepal uses the Nepalese Rupee (NPR) (current exchange rate), and has 220V/60Hz (multiple plugs, as they have retrofitted many to fit American and European plugs. Be careful of plugging in some electrical devices as the the U.S. runs at 120V). If you’re flying in, the main international airport is Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM).

Can you drink the water? 

No, the water in Nepal is not safe to drink. Drink bottled, or consider the merits of a SteriPen or LifeStraw for your trip.

How is the wifi in Nepal? 

Kathmandu and Pokhara have plenty of internet cafes and free wifi in restaurants and guesthouses—good enough for email, photos, and most uploads, with video calls usually fine too. Outside those two cities, connectivity is fair to nonexistent.

Local SIM

Travelers can easily purchase a SIM card as well as data once they land in Nepal. And it’s quite affordable. Read this SIM card guide for tips on how to get one, how to top up, and what that whole process will look like.

Visas

Nepal issues visas on arrival for citizens of most countries. These can be purchased for 15, 30, or 90 days and range from $25 to $100. Check your visa requirements here. You must bring a passport-sized photo, or stand in line and pay for one when you arrive. Volunteers technically require a visa arranged by the place they are working with as volunteering on a tourist visa is expressly forbidden, though harder for them to enforce.

How Much Does Nepal Travel Cost?

Nepal is very budget-friendly. A solo traveler can get by on a rock-bottom budget of about $15/day, or $10-15/day if volunteering (food and board usually included). Add a little more—around $30/day—and you can upgrade to nicer rooms and better food when you’re not trekking. Trekking fees push costs up, but Nepal remains one of the cheaper countries to travel in Asia even with those added in.

When to Visit Nepal

You’ll need to plan your visit around your planned activities. If you’re hiking, the trails are closed during monsoon season, which runs from June through August. Trekking season is September through May. Autumn and spring are beautiful; lush and green in the fall and flowering and cool in the spring. Winter can be chilly at altitude, but is pleasant in the Kathmandu Valley.

Food Considerations

Vegetarians do well here—the national dish, dal bhat, is lentils served with rice and veggies, and Tibetan momos (dumplings) are a vegetarian staple. Don’t expect Indian-level variety, though; the Nepalese eat meat and the food scene is simpler overall. Gastrointestinal issues are common because of poor sanitation—avoid unpeeled fruit and salads, sterilize your water, and follow these food safety principles.

Accommodation in Nepal

Nepal has a huge range of options, from cheap backpacker rooms to proper hotels, eco-lodges, and the occasional treehouse. Booking.com covers most budgets and is worth pre-booking in high season, when the bigger towns fill up fast; VRBO is also an option for members.

Once you have a local SIM (which you should get), you can call ahead and reserve spots directly—many guesthouse owners use WhatsApp and respond quickly there. If none of that works for you, check out my detailed guide to finding good places to stay.

Possible Issues

Women should not trek alone in Nepal under any circumstances. Go with a guide, or use one of the buddy trek sites to find a trekking partner. Be particularly cautious as a woman hiking in the Langtang area.

Transportation issues are a serious safety threat. Landslides and road accidents happen with frequency all year round, but particularly during the summer monsoon rains. I highly recommend travel insurance like IMG—health care quality is low when traveling throughout Nepal, and you’ll likely need to be airlifted out of Nepal if something serious happens.

Nepali Festivals of Note

• Phalgun Festivals, Kathmandu (Feb/March)
• Dashain, country-wide (September/October)
• Indra Jatra, Kathmandu (September)

Getting Around Nepal

Buses are the main (and cheapest) way to get between cities—if you’re faint of heart, don’t look too closely at the rusted bus carcasses dotting the hillsides along the way. Micro-buses (10-12 people) cost a bit more but are generally a bit safer. In a group, hiring a private driver for longer distances is fairly affordable, and bicycles or taxis are easiest for getting around Kathmandu itself.

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Is Nepal Safe for Travelers?

One of the most common issues facing travelers is gastrointestinal issues. There is very poor sanitation in Nepal so you will need to be careful with your food and water consumption. You must carry a medical kit; make sure you have several courses of antibiotics as well as a decent supply of oral rehydration salts. These ORS can save your life in the case of diarrheal illness. Anything can happen on the road. I am a firm advocate of travel insurance like IMG Global (which I’ve used for over a decade).

As far as physical safety—it’s really a rather safe country, though woman should be cautious of being alone at night or on treks. Your valuables may get robbed though, so be aware of what you leave in guesthouses and don’t carry a lot of cash.

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Pre-Trip Reading Inspiration: Books About Nepal

Fiction & Nonfiction Books About Nepal

• Arresting God in Kathmandu by Samrat Upadhyay. This is the first Nepali author to find a western publication of his story and it’s worth reading for a much more personal account of Nepal.
• Little Princes: One Man’s Promise to Bring Home the Lost Children of Nepal. A fascinating, harrowing, and humbling account of one man’s plunge into the world of child-trafficking. He gives a unique take on a side of Nepal few tourists are willing or able to see.
• The Snow Leopard. The author hikes deep into Tibetan regions of the Himalayas in search of a rarely spotted type of snow leopard. A beautifully written narrative account of nature and the journey—pick up a copy before you leave because it’s hard to find on the road!
• The Violet Shyness of Their Eyes: Notes from Nepal. Much more than the travel narrative it’s billed as, the author, a Westerner teaching in remote Nepal shares insights on how Western culture is affecting Nepal—and her opinions are far from mainstream, but you’ll find yourself agreeing most of the time.
• From Goddess to Mortal: The Royal Kumari is an absolutely fascinating part of modern Nepal religious beliefs. In this autobiography, the author details her early years as a living Goddess living at a temple in Kathmandu; after six years, however, she went from Goddess back to mortal. Intriguingly innocent as the author first experiences the attention of being Nepal’s one living Goddess contrasted sharply with her life post-Kumari status. Unique cultural insights abound and I found the story of the Kumari one of the most fascinating parts of my visit. Order before you leave as it’s only in paperback.
• Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster. A haunting account of the author’s ascent of Mt. Everest in March 1996 on the day a massive storm hit and took the lives of several of his traveling companions. Not indicative of all treks in the Himalayas by any means but compelling storytelling centered on Nepal nonetheless.

Podcasts and Online Reads About Nepal

• No one else needs to climb Everest—let’s turn it into a memorial: This is a great piece by Jan Morris and a must-read before you cross off that bucket-list trip to Everest Base Camp. Everest is a holy spot and the death toll is climbing as what was once a pursuit reserved for the fiercest of climbers has become a spectacle of tourism.
• The Case for Traveling to Nepal: A piece I wrote in the aftermath of the 2015 earthquake on the interplay between tourism and recovery—still worth reading for the ethical framing, even years on.

Read all my Nepal travel blog stories and find more regional fiction and nonfiction books and long-reads.

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Socially Responsible Travel in Nepal

Nepal is one of the most beautiful countries on earth. The Himalayas are a companion to nearly every moment in the country. And the Nepali people are warm and welcoming.

As a country, Nepal has fully embraced tourism and the money it brings to the country. Alongside that, it’s one of the poorest countries on the planet and the demands of tourism often run roughshod over conventional best tourism practices.

The mingling of a beautiful landscape, a willing culture, and a high demand for tourism has created some very serious issues. But there are benefits too; even tourism done poorly has brought needed money into impoverished rural communities.

Responsible travel is not about abandoning Nepal because it has some issues, but rather identifying areas where tourism can be shifted into a more positive force for good in the country. A responsible traveler should be sensitive to the development issues Nepal faces, including communities still recovering more than a decade after the 2015 earthquake. Let’s look at a few areas of responsible tourism decisions facing a Nepal-bound traveler.

Trekking in Nepal

As one of the top billed things to do in Nepal, there are a handful of specific ethical issues directly in and related to your trek. A key concern is the impact trekkers have on the remote mountain environments during their trek.

Trekkers should plan on keeping their waste to an absolute minimum. This includes packaging from food or items you’ve packed, as well as plastic water bottles. All trash has to be burned (not ideal) or carried off of the mountain. Do your part and carry a reusable bottle and a SteriPen or LifeStraw for your trip. Women should also use a menstrual cup not only for ease of travel, but it’s the most eco-friendly option, too.

Lighten your load on your trek. Carry the lightest pack possible and leave behind all the nonessentials. Some trekkers will pay their porters to carry a heavier load and this is poor practice. The porters may accept the extra fee, but they are risking their livelihoods by trekking overloaded. General guidelines are 6-7 kilos per person, with a porter carrying max 12.5 kilos. Stick to this limit—you won’t need the extra clothes you’re over-packing anyway.

To that end, ensure you are paying fair wages to all porters and guides. One of the most compelling reasons to support tourism in the Himalayas is the positive impact it has bringing money into rural communities. Don’t haggle too much and ensure you are tipping and spreading money around fairly.

Visiting Religious Sites

The Nepali people are a spiritual people. Visiting the temples, stupas, and religious sites is a clear highlight to any trip to Nepal, but keep in mind a few behavior best-practices.

Show respect by dressing conservatively on any day that you plan to visit temples and religious sites. Although you should generally dress conservatively around the country too, this is doubly important at holy sites. Women should cover their shoulders and knees. Men should wear pants or long shorts and no singlets—also ensure your shirts have sleeves.

Be respectful with your camera; you are not allowed to take photos inside of many temples. If you are unsure, ask first.

Remove your shoes before entering temples, and never point your feet at the altar, nor should you step over people. Feet are considered dirty and people will shift their legs if you need to pass.

Consider these additional general responsible travel tips to lessen your impact on the places you visit, and this page has thorough information on additional considerations for responsible tourism in Nepal. I also suggest that all travelers read this great post on giving to child beggars; you will face this conundrum, so best to be prepared.

Volunteering in Nepal

Volunteering is another sticky issue for responsible travel in Nepal. Nepal’s aid industry thrives, but the general lack of government control and regulations means that this country has some serious issues in the volunteering and voluntourism arenas.

Generally, don’t plan on volunteering at an orphanage. And if you plan to teach English, ensure you have at least 4-6 weeks minimum to devote to a location.

Beyond these two types of volunteering, there is a lot of other work that is less “sexy,” but also needed. Nepal needs skilled labor of almost any form, so if you have a skill that you can spend time teaching locals, that is a valuable form of volunteering. This could be anything from agriculture to medicine to construction. Think outside the box when you are researching volunteering opportunities, and devote as much time as possible to the cause.

Let’s look at the specifics. For me, I taught English to young Nepali monks at a monastery about an hour outside of Nepal. There are countless opportunities in the realms of medical volunteering and teaching English. There are also a ton of organizations facilitating volunteering opportunities.

The sad fact is, however, that most are not doing good work. Some are outright scams and will never give your fee to the places hosting your volunteering. Nepal has so many volunteer opportunities that you should not pay a fee to volunteer. Most volunteer opportunities charge just for room and board, and occasionally a small fee to cover your training—occasionally. 

If your schedule is flexible, then head to Kathmandu and ask around—you will have a ton of choices. By arriving and looking around, you not only save money, but it often cuts out the confusing middle-man and you can better vet the organization for its ethics and efficacy. These pre-vetted volunteer opportunities are another option for finding good placements.

Animal/Elephant Tourism

Elephant tourism is sticky subject. I expressly discourage riding elephants in Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, and other areas of Southeast Asia. But in Nepal, there are other considerations.

The elephants are primarily used in Chitwan National Park to allow tourists to see the endangered one-horned rhino. Chitwan is home to an abundance of wildlife, and unique flora and fauna. Even more, beyond the rhino, Chitwan houses the last stronghold of Bengal tigers in the wild, and is home to a critically-endangered vulture species. This park is important, and the elephants shuttling tourists to the rhinos provide invaluable funding that goes toward anti-poaching measures.

This is a rare instance where—if you really insist on riding an elephant somewhere in the world—you could make a reasonable case for it being more sustainable here than in other areas. That said, elephants are not meant to be ridden, so this is for those that plan to do it anyway. And besides the elephant aspect, I highly, highly recommend visit the national park. Chitwan National Park is a cultural stronghold of the Terai people, a UNESCO site, and a stunningly pretty place on this planet.

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Best Things to Do in Nepal

For the complete rundown with practical tips for each one, see my full guide to the best things to do in Nepal. Here are the experiences I’d never skip:

My Favorite Experiences in Nepal

• Walking around all of Kathmandu’s many temples and stupas.
• Taking a Vipassana meditation course outside of Pokhara for 10 days.
• Trekking the Annapurnas for a week with friends.
• Looking at all the wild animals in Chitwan National Park.
• Volunteering Teaching English at a monastery deep in the Kathmandu Valley.

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A Simple Nepal Route

Nepal’s two main trekking regions don’t connect, so pick one per trip unless you have a month or more—trying to fit both Everest Base Camp and an Annapurna trek into two or three weeks means doing neither justice. Here’s how the pieces fit together for each.

If you’re trekking the Annapurna region:

• Days 1–3: Kathmandu. Settle in, adjust to Thamel’s chaos, and work through the major temple sites.
• Day 4: Travel to Bandipur. This heritage hill town makes a worthwhile overnight stop on the Kathmandu–Pokhara road rather than pushing straight through—though build in slack, since this route has been known to get disrupted by strikes or road closures with little warning.
• Day 5: Travel to Pokhara. Use the afternoon to arrange trekking permits and a guide.
• Days 6–12: Trek. Poon Hill takes about a week; Annapurna Base Camp runs closer to two.
• Days 13–14: Pokhara. Recover lakeside, or add paragliding or a Vipassana course if you have extra time.
• Days 15–16: Chitwan National Park. A detour south for wildlife before flying out of Kathmandu.

If you’re trekking Everest Base Camp:

• Days 1–2: Kathmandu. Sort permits and gear, and see the major temple sites.
• Day 3: Fly to Lukla. This flight is weather-dependent and gets delayed often—don’t book a tight connection home around it.
• Days 4–15: Trek to Base Camp and back. Most itineraries run 12–14 days round-trip, including acclimatization days.
• Days 16–17: Kathmandu. Decompress, with Chitwan as an easy add-on if you have the days.

Staying longer opens up a different shape entirely. My own trip ran closer to eight weeks: a week in Kathmandu, a month volunteering at a monastery in Pharping, a 10-day Vipassana course near Pokhara, and about a week trekking once you count prep and recovery days on either end. If you have that kind of time, let one long commitment—volunteering, a course, a language stint—anchor the trip, and build the sightseeing and trekking in around it rather than racing the loop above.

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Kathmandu Travel Guide

Kathmandu is huge. It’s bigger than you might assume, but it’s still very navigable. Even better, it’s home to the most fascinating Hindu and Buddhist temples I’ve ever seen.

The 2015 earthquake destroyed some of these sites, and restoration is still ongoing more than a decade later. Most are open to visitors again, even the ones still under scaffolding, and it’s worth seeing both what survived and what’s being rebuilt.

There is a lot to do in the city. The backpacker and tourist section of Kathmandu, Thamel, is a beehive of activity and amenities built for Westerners. Though Pokhara is the main spot for Annapurna circuit treks, Kathmandu is the starting point for Everest Base Camp, as well as a lot of the volunteer opportunities in the country.

Things To Do in Kathmandu

Temples and holy sites are rampant in Kathmandu and date back to some of the oldest Buddhist and Hindu temples in the world. No matter how “templed-out” you might be when you land in Kathmandu, you simply have to visit each of these four major sites—all different and all intriguing. For a complete guide to the city, however, visit my specific post on Things to Do in Kathmandu.

• Hanuman Dhoka, aka Durbar Square. A UNESCO site, this series of temples and buildings was once used by royalty, the really fascinating part of the square are the elaborately carved doors to where the Kumari Ghar lives. The Kumari Ghar is a living goddess and it’s worth some research to see if you’ll be in Kathmandu during one of her handful of appearances (and check the recommended reads above to learn more about her). I loved visiting this site; bring lunch and sit on the steps like locals and watch the pigeons, people, and sadhus wander.
• Swayambhunath, aka Monkey Temple. There are literally hundreds of monkeys here. The are tons of statues to the various gods, including monkey god Hanuman. Worth a visit on the day you do the other popular stupas and temples.
• Boudhanath. A UNESCO site and most likely the largest Stupa in the world. Consider this the mac-daddy of all Buddhist sites. It’s huge and bustling with activity all day long.
• Pashupatinath Temple. This is a sacred site for the Hindu and as a Westerner you can look at the temple from the other side of the river. Also a UNESCO site, you can watch from above as they regularly perform ritual cremations in the ghats.
• Consider an off-the-beaten-path trek. This great piece looks at the quiet nature awaiting those visiting the trails less taken.

Places to Eat and Sleep

I don’t have solid budget picks here—the cheap places I saw were pretty rough on cleanliness. Cab into Thamel from the airport (or walk from the bus station) and look around; there are tons of options at every price point.

• Helena’s Rooftop Restaurant. Beautiful views over Thamel and the city. The breakfast is pretty tasty (they make the claim it’s the best in Kathmandu which might be a bit much) and the set priced meals and breakfasts make it easy to know what you’re going to pay.
• OR2K. They have wifi and a Middle Eastern/Western menu—pricier than local foods but breezy restaurant area with trendy/hippy vibe. I went for the wifi really, since that can be tricky to find at the guesthouses.
• ZAIKA Nepali Cuisine. The momos are delicious, food is reasonably priced, and the restaurant is never too touristy even though it’s in Thamel (which is a real feat to maintain the relaxing environment!). It can be tricky to find, so follow the directions on the site and enjoy. And know that it’s a relaxed vibe during the day, and pumps music during the evening.
• Stay in a nice spot. Consider Hotel Mums Home on a budget, Hotel Tibet for midrange, and Hotel Yak & Yeti for a nice base from which to explore Kathmandu.

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Pokhara

Pokhara is a complete 180 from Kathmandu’s backpacker district, Thamel—wide, relaxed streets with far less shop-on-shop clutter. It’s the starting point for most treks in Nepal, including all of the Annapurna routes. Take the all-day bus from Kathmandu, or book a mini-bus through one of the tourist agencies there; since Pokhara is built up around the trekking business, you’ll find everything you need for a trek once you arrive.

Also, there’s a large Tibetan community in Pokhara operating the tourist shops—dig around and you can find neat and unique souvenirs to ship home!

Things to Do in Pokhara

• Trek the Annapurna Circuit. Most people come to Pokhara to begin their treks around the Annapurna Circuit. Treks can vary in length from several days (like my Poon Hill trek) to several weeks (Annapurna Base Camp)—and everything in between. I recommend organizing through the Noble Inn guesthouse, they’re wonderful. But there are dozens of reputable companies, just ask questions and outline who’s paying for food, porter costs, accommodation, etc.
• Kayak, rafting, boating. Pokhara is surrounded by lakes and rivers with grade 4 and 5 rapids. For adventure, try the rapids. Try boating for a more relaxing day though, you can rent it for a couple hours, fish, and swim in the lake.
• Take a Vipassana Meditation Course: Perhaps single hardest thing I’ve accomplished is completing this 10-day silent meditation course. There is a Vipassana center near Pokhara in a gorgeous spot overlooking Begnas Lake.
• Paragliding: On a clear day this would be simply stunning. I was too chicken to try, but the views from the ground are stunning, so consider this a more bird’s-eye view of the Himalayas.

Places to Eat and Sleep

• Hotel Noble Inn. Family run and very clean, they were affordable and so very, very friendly. We booked our trek through them, they arranged it all and everything went flawlessly. It’s so much more than staying in a hotel, stay for a while and you’re welcomed to share stories and laughter too. It’s also centrally located and close to internet and great eats.
• Hotel Crystal Palace. Located in the Phewa Lake area, this place has wifi, pretty views, and a bit of everything for a comfortable stay. It’s mid-range pricing and conveniently located.
• New Pokhara Lodge. Just a tiny bit outside of town but still walkable to the tourist spots and restaurants. A lovely vibe at this budget option with wifi and all amenities you could need.
• Punjabi Restaurant. Seriously tasty Indian food. There are surprisingly few Indian eats in Nepal, so this one was a welcomed find – I ate there daily.
• German Bakery. Popular and for a reason, though it’s hardly a hidden spot, the Western-style baked goods can act as some comfort food if you need it.

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Nepal Travel Guide: Best Stories From the Blog

Enjoy all of my Nepal travel stories, each blog dispatch written from the road as I traveled this beautiful country.