Oaxaca, Mexico Travel Guide

Last updated on May 18, 2024 by Shannon

One of the most culturally rich places in Mexico, Oaxaca state is among my favorite places in the country. This region, and the city in particular, is widely known for it’s mezcal, chocolate, and mole; as well as the diverse indigenous groups still calling the Oaxaca Valley home after hundreds of years.

While I love traveling the Yucatán Peninsula for its intriguing Maya ruins and uniquely beautiful cenotes, Oaxaca provides a blend of food, culture, and history unique to this part of Mexico—what you can find here is impossible to enjoy the same way when visiting anywhere else.

And while tourists descend on Oaxaca (pronounced wa-HAH-kah) for the two most notable festivals, Guelaguetza and Day of the Dead, it’s vibrant and interesting year-round. The city has beautifully restored colonial buildings—many of which are now hotels, museums, and restaurants.

In the past decade, international travel magazines have featured Oaxacan chefs for their intriguing twists on classic dishes that have long shaped the history of Mexico’s food scene. Couple that with it being the birthplace of mezcal—a smoky, fiery liquor that has quickly risen as the drink of choice in hipster havens from San Francisco to London—and you will never lack for things to do when you visit Oaxaca.

Jump to the part of this travel guide, or start from the top and work your way through the information and recommendations for visiting Oaxaca, Mexico.

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Is Oaxaca safe to visit?

Although a few regions of Mexico have cartel violence and safety concerns, Oaxaca State is mostly free from these threats.

You may, however, encounter issues with the local protests—Oaxaca is famous for the amount of protests and these protesters are usually nonviolent, but they do close down the roads for entire days. The protests ramp up every year around May. Many times, these take place outside of the tourist areas, but occasionally the protest focuses on the city-center’s zòcolo.

By and large, tourists shouldn’t fear the protesting activity as it is most often teachers protesting wages, villages protesting new laws, and things of that sort. Again, it’s not targeted toward tourists and the tour companies and people of Oaxaca will be grateful to see you no matter what types of local protests are occurring at the time. But, you should double-check local information before traveling there in spring/summer.

In terms of personal safety walking around town, you should have no issues walking the city center after dark, it’s lively and active until midnight; and later on the weekends. Cabs are always nearby too, if you need a quick lift home.

No matter what time of day, be cautious of petty theft and opportunistic crimes like bag and phone snatching by a motorbike zooming past—it’s not common, but nor is it unheard of. There have been problems with muggings for solitary hikers near the Cerro del Fortin auditorium.

Check the U.S. government’s travel warnings to keep abreast of that situation, but mostly don’t be up there after sunset, or alone with expensive gear.

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Fast Facts About Oaxaca, Mexico Travel

Currency

Mexican peso (MXN) (current exchange rate)

Electricity

127V/60Hz (American plug)

Can you drink the water in Oaxaca?

No, the water is not safe to drink in Oaxaca. Expats and travelers should drink bottled, or consider the merits of a SteriPen or LifeStraw for your trip.

I used the tap water to brush my teeth, but other expats do not. If you’re a new traveler, or you have a sensitive stomach, use bottled water even for teeth brushing.

Local SIM Cards

This is a cinch and highly recommended for GPS and navigating. Telcel is likely your best option, although Movistar is popular in this region of Mexico (but not other regions).

For most travelers to Oaxaca, and especially those traveling to other areas of Mexico, opt for Telcel. If you have a U.S. T-Mobile account, it will do the trick, too.

There’s a full SIM guide here—note that you must show your passport to buy one at some locations (it’s hit or miss which places will ask to see it before selling you a SIM).

Festivals of Note

• Day of the Dead is the signature festival in this region of Mexico and Oaxaca is an ideal place to celebrate. Day of the Dead occurs around Halloween, specifically in the first days of November.
• Guelaguetza is huge and celebrates the 16 indigenous cultures of the Oaxaca Valley (July).
• On an offbeat note, The Fiesta de Rábanos, the Festival of the Radishes is lively and takes place in the zócalo around the Christmas holidays with fireworks and crafts (23 December).

Oaxaca’s Primary Airports

• Xoxocotlán in Oaxaca City (OAX)
• Bahías de Huatulco in Huatulco (HUX)

How’s the wifi in Oaxaca?

Wifi is rampant and available at guesthouses and cafes. The data plans are also solid inside of cities and tourist areas so you can tether to your phone if you buy a data plan.

Possible Issues

Not many. If you’re prone to nosebleeds, then the extremely dry winters might exacerbate the issue (it did for me).

And since Oaxaca is at altitude, those coming from sea-level may experience a few days of headaches and tiredness that can come from altitude sickness if you’re not acclimated. Stay well hydrated and get a good night’s sleep.

What’s the weather like in Oaxaca?

The winters in Oaxaca are mild, cool, and exceedingly dry. You won’t see snow in the city, but night-time temperatures can drop drastically, even on what was a seemingly mild winter day.

By mid summer, it’s scorching hot and unrelentingly sunny—bring a hat and sunscreen. Stay well-hydrated year round.

How much does it cost to travel Oaxaca?

Oaxaca is a favored destination for North American retirees because it’s so easy on the wallet. Extended-stay accommodation for the winter months books up early, but you can find affordable hostels and guesthouses year round.

A budget backpacker can get by with $30/day on the frugal side, and mid-range travelers will have plenty of tasty food and cute guesthouses to enjoy on a budget closer to $55/day per person.

Long-term, it costs well under $800 a month to live in Oaxaca City.

Accommodation

Accommodation is a cinch. I used the Moon Guide Oaxaca when moving around the state. If you’re basing yourself out of one of the major cities, consider using one of the booking engines. 

While the city guides below go to my favored hotel booking site, Booking.com, many great deals are also found on VRBO if you are member—vacation rentals can actually save you money since you often have a full kitchen, particularly if you’re a family or traveling with more than three people.

These websites have very established presences in this region of Mexico because of the number of North American snowbirds visiting each winter—vacation rentals are among the easiest ways to book nice spots in a good area of town. Backpackers can find dorms on Hostelworld, but most travelers, including budget travelers, can find great deals at Booking.com.

And if you buy a local SIM (which you should), you can easily call ahead and directly reserve spots en route. The months of December through February are very busy in Oaxaca City—if you plan any sort of extended stay, book ahead or you will not find affordable apartments and accommodations for rent.

If none of these will do, check out my detailed guide to finding good places to stay.

How to Get Around Oaxaca

The major roads are well maintained and connect most any place you’ll need to go, but this is a mountainous region of Mexico and there is no way to avoid the winding roads. If you are prone to motion sickness, the long bus rides will tax your ability to stay well.

For shorter rides, colectivos, shared taxis, are an easy way to visit any of the rural towns. These taxis congregate at Abastos market (also called “central” when you/drivers are returning to the city), and a few other spots around town.

The northeastern colectivo launching point that I reference in the recommended daytrips is pinpointed here—it’s easy to find because of the nearby McDonald’s. Go to this spot, then find a shared taxi with the name of your destination painted on the side. The colectivos usually cost 10-25 pesos max to any towns out in the Valley, and they add people to the car as you drive in the direction of your destination.

Of note, the local buses are considerably safer than colectivos, but less convenient. If you have Spanish and time on your side, these buses ply the main highways out of town. You will have to know your stop by sight or beg help from locals. You can catch a bus to the day-trip spots from the same spot where you catch a colectivo.

In Oaxaca City, the taxis are a flat fee; they are convenient if you find yourself out late and not prepared to navigate the cobbled streets on the way home. That said, most of Oaxaca City is walkable and you can explore everything in the city on foot.

Getting to or from Oaxaca

Use Bookaway to find the best route to or from Oaxaca, which includes public transport, flight prices, and the price of private or shared shuttle transfers. A lot of travelers arrive from Mexico City or Puebla, and those routes have quite a few options.

Note that the Ado bus network is extensive and ideal for those on a budget. These buses are large, comfortable, and affordable. Rental cars are easy to come by, although expensive to rent—they tack on huge fees and taxes to the offered price (read this thorough piece on navigating rental insurance in Mexico).

Food & Drink Considerations

Food standards are good in this region of Mexico, and Oaxaca is famous for its culinary traditions and history. This is the “Land of the Seven Moles,” and they take their food (and pork in particular) seriously.

The water is not safe to drink, but bottled water is easy to find. Street food is scattered around, but the markets hold most of the street eats, so check the guides below to known where you can find the affordable and tasty street eats.

Outside of the markets, you can most often find steamed corn (elotes and esquites), burgers, and sometimes a taco stand. If you decide to stick to budget and street food options, follow these food safety principles.

If you’re vegetarian, Oaxaca is a hard place to eat. Because of that, I wrote a dedicated post outlining how to eat vegetarian in Oaxaca, Mexico, specifically.

Mezcal is the drink of choice in Oaxaca and you don’t have to go far to try it. It’s a very strong and smoky liquor, like tequila with a very distinct flavor. I don’t care for mezcal in any fashion (and there are many types and flavors to try), but I was in the minority, by far. In my group of friends, I alone didn’t enjoy the drink.

That said, I did enjoy learning about the history of the drink and understanding the importance of the agave plants to the local populations. I recommend mezcal tours in the city guides below; I highly recommended that you sign up for one.

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History to Know Before Traveling to Oaxaca, Mexico

During the pre-colonial period, Oaxaca was home to roughly 16 different cultures; each one had its own language, customs, and traditions. The Zapotecs and Mixtecas were the largest and most sophisticated of these, and this ratio holds true today as descendants are widely spread throughout the valley in small villages and farms.

Between 1500-500 B.C., San José Magote, a Zapotec city, was a significant settlement in Oaxaca, notable for its early use of pottery, a craft still evident in the region. Oaxaca, rich in cultural diversity, was home to about 16 different cultures, including the prominent Zapotecs and Mixtecs, whose descendants still populate the valley.

In the 15th century, the Aztecs conquered Oaxaca, but their control was brief. Hernán Cortés arrived in 1519, marking the beginning of Spanish influence. The Spanish colonization reshaped Oaxaca, evident in its colonial architecture and the haciendas that now dot the valley, many turned into mezcal plantations.

Oaxaca’s layout, with its central zócalo, reflects its colonial past. Despite Spanish rule, which lasted 300 years, the region saw significant changes, including the battle of Huajuapan in 1811, where Valerio Trujano’s forces claimed Oaxaca for the revolutionaries. Later, during the Mexican Revolution, Emiliano Zapata’s ideology that land belonged to the workers gained traction here.

Today, Oaxaca, with its blend of indigenous and colonial history, remains a culturally rich but economically challenged region. The city and state of Oaxaca continue to be a tapestry of historical layers, each adding to its unique character.

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Pre-Trip Reading Inspiration: Books About Mexico

Fiction & Nonfiction Books About Mexico

• La Casa de los Secretos: Only available in Spanish, it’s also the only novel I could find set in Oaxaca and sharing the culture and history unique to this area. You should definitely read it before visiting if you can read Spanish.
• Mexico: Biography of Power: For the history buff, it doesn’t get much better than this comprehensive look at how the centralization of power throughout Mexico’s history has shaped not only the country, but all of Latin America.
• The Death Of Artemio Cruz: Hailed as a masterpiece and a “haunting voyage into the soul of modern Mexico,” this novel uses the narrator’s flashbacks to process how the country’s past continues to affect the present.
• Sliced Iguana: Travels in Mexico: On my list for a while now and recommended by readers as an easy read that gives a light touch to all the history and culture she talks about while retelling her journey.
• The People’s Guide to Mexico: Even veteran Mexico travelers will enjoy this book. It’s like a guidebook, but even more. It’s hands-down the best guidebook you should use to understand the various regions, the cultural quirks, and all the reasons Mexico is a fantastic place to travel and live. Unlike the Lonely Planet recommended above, this one is a cultural guide to the country. It comes highly recommended by me, and by heaps of Amazon reviewers too.
• Frida at Home: A beautiful and well-researched book on Frida Kahlo, one of Mexico’s well known artists and a national icon. From her early life to her painting and marriage to Diego Rivera, give one a peek into how Mexican culture and landscapes shaped this magnificent woman.

Podcasts and Online Reads About Mexico

• The Rise of Mezcal: Great for Cocktails, Better for Oaxaca: Mezcal is the favored drink in Oaxaca State, and it’s making waves all over the world too. This is a great read on the history of mezcal and a necessary reading before signing up for your own mezcal tour to a nearby palenque.
• Mexico: History and Resistance: A solid podcast that makes listening to the country’s history easy. Download this and prep for your Mexico trip by taking a trip through time.
• Mexico with kids: Good niche read with a lot of facts and information you might be wondering about family specific travel.

Read all my Mexico travel stories and find more regional fiction and nonfiction books and long-reads.

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Socially Responsible Travel in Oaxaca, Mexico

Socially responsible travel in Mexico is easier than in some parts of the world. The dark side of animal tourism haunts many travelers in Southeast Asia. But in Mexico, responsible tourism focuses more on people than animals (excluding the diving done along the coast!).

Oaxaca is the heart of indigenous Mexico and Oaxaca State has a large concentration of the indigenous cultures—16 different groups with unique customs and languages date back hundreds of years. There are general tactics for responsible travel anywhere in the world, and those linked tips allow you to lessen your impact on the places you visit.

For Oaxaca specifically, let’s look at the regional activities and treks, as well as how to find responsible volunteering opportunities.

Trekking & Cabañas

Oaxaca State is a mountainous region encompassed within the Sierra Madre de Oaxaca. This unique location makes it the ideal place to plan nature hikes and remote homestays within the indigenous communities.

In fact, community-based tourism (CBT) is the number one way to responsibly visit the mountains outside of Oaxaca, as well as the local indigenous cultures. Many of the cabañas are well-appointed too. Some are rustic, but others offer many creature comforts you wouldn’t expect to find in such rural areas.

These communities have invested a lot of money and resources in making their cabañas and towns hospitable to tourism. That said, there is painfully little advice on how to arrange a trek or a weekend at one of the cabañas.

For formal trekking tours, where you go on a proper adventure with guides, Expediciones Sierra Norte is the best company. Not only are their tours great, but they have sound responsible tourism practices. They have offices in Oaxaca Centro if you want a face-to-face before booking something.

For indie travelers with a bit of Spanish and a sense of adventure, you can book directly with the cabañas located in towns all over the region. Oaxaca Mio offers the best information on each site, what they offer, and contact information. That fantastic yellow map is from its website, and it’s the only one like it that I’ve ever found.

Oaxaca Mio provides information on programs in all the tiny towns, like San Miguel del Valle, which is an uber traditional town where I spent many of my volunteers hours. You can also find information on the nearby Pueblos Magicos, which are cultural heritage towns singled out by the government as special. The green area on the map, Pueblos Mancomunados, is particularly popular with birders and nature lovers.

Volunteering in Oaxaca

Oaxaca has a range of opportunities for travelers keen to volunteer in the region. Most of the volunteer opportunities require at least a few weeks commitment from volunteers to ensure greatest impact. That said, there are opportunities for short-term projects if you have specialized skills such as any sort of medical or healthcare background, or a background in construction and building-type work.

The indigenous communities outside of Oaxaca often lack access to strong healthcare. For that reason, doctors in any field (medical, dental, ophthalmology, physical therapy, etc) are particularly useful, even in short clinics. If you’re a medical volunteer heading to Oaxaca, you can certainly find an outlet for your skills and knowledge.

There are many large NGOs offering paid programs, but you can easily find indie opportunities that only require you to cover your own room and board for this type of travel. Consider this list of vetted independent volunteer opportunities in Mexico—there are extensive options in Oaxaca State.

Supporting Responsible Businesses

Consider using and visiting these Mexican social enterprises on your trip. Supporting social enterprises is one of the easiest ways to create a trip with positive impact. This means picking businesses that are using funds to support local communities and to offer training, support, or to protect natural resources.

You can do everything from shop for souvenirs to learning how to make pure chocolate to picking a trekking guide to finding a homestay—all with companies committed to social impact and respect.

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Best Things to Do in Oaxaca, Mexico

Oaxaca State is a popular tourist region in Mexico. My list of the Best Things to Do in Oaxaca has the detailed transportation information you’d need to actually visit these places, and covers everything to do in Oaxaca City, and as day or weekend trips into the surrounding mountains and ecotourism hotspots.

If you head to the coast, use this thorough Travel Guide to Puerto Escondido.

My Favorite Oaxaca Travel Experiences:

1. Volunteering with En Vía and learning more about the region’s indigenous cultures and how microfinance is helping them better their lives.
2. Visiting the Zapotec cities and villages east of Oaxaca, like Teotitlán and others.
3. Hanging out with friends in Oaxaca City’s zócalo in the evenings and soaking in the music, laughter, and happiness.
4. Visiting the stunning frozen waterfalls at Hierve el Agua outside of Oaxaca.
5. Taking photo walks during the golden hour before sunset to capture the gorgeous churches and lively street scenes and colorful graffiti around the city.

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Things to Do in Oaxaca City Center

In the heart of Mexico, Oaxaca stands as a beacon of cultural richness and diversity, offering a myriad of experiences that blend history, art, and nature into a tapestry of unforgettable moments.

In addition to the traditional things to do, use Que Pasa Oaxaca‘s event’s guide to see the upcoming shows, lectures, arts performances, and more.

Here’s a curated list of the best things to do:

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

Housed in the beautiful Santo Domingo complex, this museum is a treasure trove of Oaxacan history and culture. Explore exhibits that tell the story of the region from pre-Hispanic times to the present.

Then go book a chocolate workshop run by CACAO Cooperative is a very small social enterprise still growing its business. It’s a hands-on way to learn every step of the process from a wonderful business.

Templo de Santo Domingo

A marvel of Baroque architecture, the Santo Domingo Temple dazzles with its intricate gold-leaf interior. It’s a testament to the artistic and religious fervor that has shaped Oaxaca.

Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

Adjacent to Santo Domingo, this ethnobotanical garden is a living encyclopedia of Oaxaca’s diverse plant life. It’s a serene escape that highlights the importance of flora in Oaxacan culture.

Mercado Benito Juárez & Mercado 20 de Noviembre

Dive into the heart of Oaxacan life at these bustling markets. They’re a sensory feast of colors, smells, and sounds, offering everything from handicrafts to local delicacies.

Mezcal Tasting

Immerse yourself in the world of mezcal, Oaxaca’s iconic spirit. Visit local distilleries to learn about its production and savor the smoky flavor that captures the essence of the region.

Learning Spanish

Embrace the local language to deepen your connection with Oaxaca. Engaging in Spanish lessons enhances your ability to interact with locals, understand the culture, and navigate the city with greater ease.

Consider ICO or Oaxaca International. This page also provides a full list of Spanish schools in the city.

Hanging Out in the Zócalo

The Zócalo, Oaxaca’s main square, is the city’s beating heart. Spend time here to soak in the lively atmosphere, observe the daily life of Oaxacans, and perhaps catch impromptu musical performances or local gatherings.

Taking an En Vía Tour

Participate in an En Vía tour to experience responsible tourism. These social enterprise tours offer insights into local communities, supporting women’s empowerment and sustainable development through microfinance across the Oaxaca Valley. These tours are the single best way to learn about the indigenous cultures in this region of Mexico.

Doing a Mezcal Tour in the Valley

Embark on a mezcal tour in the surrounding valleys. These tours not only allow you to taste various mezcals but also provide a behind-the-scenes look at the traditional methods of mezcal production, deeply rooted in Oaxacan culture.

If you can get a spot, opt for a tour with Omar Alonso, a local Oaxacan running food and mezcal tours in the city.

Shopping for Local Handmade Goods

Oaxaca is a haven for handcrafted goods, especially tapetes (handwoven rugs). Visiting local markets and workshops gives you the chance to purchase these unique items directly from the artisans, supporting their craft and taking home a piece of Oaxacan heritage.

Taking a Cooking Class

Engage in a cooking class to delve into Oaxaca’s renowned culinary scene. Learn to prepare traditional dishes using local ingredients, an experience that offers both a taste of the region’s flavors and an understanding of its culinary traditions.

El Sabor Zapotec is a cooking class run by Reyna Mendoza, one of the women in the En Vía microfinance program, and it’s well done.

Best Day Trips from Oaxaca

Venturing beyond the colorful streets of Oaxaca City reveals a landscape rich with natural wonders and ancient sites, each offering a unique glimpse into the region’s soul.

Use my detailed list of things to do for transportation information on any of the day trips mentioned or highlighted in this Oaxaca Travel Guide. These day trips will enrich your journey with unforgettable experiences—I loved each one of these for its ability to lead me through the tapestry of Oaxaca’s diverse cultures and topography.

Hierve el Agua

Venture to these natural rock formations resembling cascades of water. The mineral-rich springs here create a surreal landscape, perfect for a refreshing dip and awe-inspiring photos.

Mitla

Explore this archaeological site known for its intricate geometric mosaics. Mitla was a religious center for the Zapotecs and later the Mixtecs, and its unique artistry is a marvel.

Tule Tree

Witness the grandeur of the ancient Tule Tree, one of the world’s largest living beings. Its immense girth and age make it a natural wonder and a symbol of endurance.

Teotitlán del Valle

This village is famed for its handwoven textiles. Meet artisans who use traditional techniques to create vibrant rugs and tapestries, each a piece of living heritage.

San Bartolo Coyotepec

Known for its black pottery, this village offers a glimpse into an ancient craft. Discover the skill and artistry behind each piece, shaped and fired using age-old methods.

Monte Albán

Perched atop a mountain, Monte Albán’s ancient ruins offer a window into the lives of the Zapotecs. Wander among the pyramids and tombs, feeling the echoes of a civilization that thrived centuries ago.

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