A Little Adventure… Hiking to Red Hot Lava on Pacaya, an Active Volcano in Guatemala

Last updated on June 22, 2026 by Shannon

Six of us were stranded, teetering on a tiny ledge above Pacaya’s lava flow near Antigua, Guatemala. The rock under our feet was solid—but heat radiated up through every crack. I felt like a pot roast in a slow cooker.

Can you imagine it?

Our tour guide had ungracefully deposited us on this tiny perch—a lookout you can only reach with a boost—and then disappeared to help the rest of the group get their lava moment (i.e. a selfie with red lava in the background). We stood there longer than we wanted, snapping photos and throwing increasingly desperate looks his way as the heat built under our feet.

When I visited, there was a steady stream of people making the same pilgrimage. Everyone wanted the same thing: to get as close to the lava as the authorities would allow without actually becoming part of the volcano.

Pacaya Volcano in 2026: What to Know

• Lava isn’t guaranteed—some days you’ll see it, some days you won’t
• Tours run daily from Antigua (usually afternoons); easy to book last minute
• Crowds peak Dec–April and June–August—expect a busy trail
• Guides may push you farther than you’re comfortable—set your own limit

If seeing lava is your main goal, ask your tour company what conditions have been like that week.

What is it Like Climbing Pacaya Volcano?

Now we’re going to Tarantino this story to find out just precisely why I was stranded on a ledge of sizzling lava rock.

After a couple of days wandering Antigua’s cobblestone streets, it was hard not to start looking up at the volcanoes surrounding the city and wondering what they looked like from closer up. Until the late 2010s, the general consensus was that a trip to Pacaya Volcano was almost a rite of passage.

Bucking no trends and lured by the prospect of witnessing an active volcano up close, I laced up my trusty hiking boots and long, high-tech pants—the minimum attire you should wear on the Pacaya hike.

Hiking up Pacaya, I quickly discovered the downside of the horse tours. Horse poop. Everywhere. You’d think an active volcano would be the most memorable smell on the trail. It was not.

Around three-quarters into the climb, a lava stream paralleled the trail—green grass growing right alongside a river of dark lava rock.

Once the grass ended, it was time to climb over the lava rock for a closer view of Pacaya. This is where the hike starts getting dicey. The trail gave way to a field of black lava rock and a large “Danger” sign that every single person in our group stopped to read.

Our guide did not.

In fact, he strode past it with such speed and enthusiasm that you’d have thought it said “Disney World, Straight Ahead.”

We exchanged a few looks, tightened our grip on our walking sticks, and picked our way across the uneven lava rock while trying not to think too hard about what the sign had been warning us about.

I was eternally grateful for my rented walking stick as I picked my way across the lava rock, feeling the strange heat emanating from below grow stronger the longer we hiked over the lava rock. Every few minutes I’d hear a loud popping sound and whip my head to the right to catch sight of Pacaya spitting out molten rocks into the sky.

To be clear, we were nowhere near the summit—that’s neither possible nor allowed. But we had reached the farthest point most tourists go when our guide pointed farther up the lava field and promised actual red lava.

That got everyone’s attention.

So we followed.

The heat was impossible to ignore. I’m from Florida, so it takes a lot of heat to phase me, and I was phased. And alarmed.

But I did want to see the red lava.

So as the group continued to pick our way toward the ledge, the first of us to arrive were given a boost and deposited on the rock ledge—red hot lava clearly in sight but still far away. And though I was content with this viewing, others in the group had begun to venture toward other ledges and our guide scurried away to help them keep from killing themselves in the lava quest.

And as we stood there, the breeze died down and the once relatively bearable heat became suffocating. One of the women in our group suddenly looked down and swore. Her ankles were turning bright red from the heat coming through the rocks.

And that’s when things unraveled.

Roasting Marshmallows on Pacaya Volcano

Thankfully, David took one look at our situation and decided we had roasted long enough. He worked his way over and helped each of us climb off the ledge before the guide ever made it back.

I was more than happy to rejoin the larger group while our guide continued his quest for the “perfect” lava viewpoint.

Once we rejoined the larger group, the atmosphere lightened. Someone handed out marshmallows, and we stuck them on long branches and lowered them into a heat vent. They browned almost instantly.

As I ate my marshmallow, I was impressed. I was also very relieved to be standing somewhere that wasn’t actively trying to roast me.

Acatenango vs. Pacaya: Which One Would I Choose?

Years after my Pacaya hike, one of my best friends visited Guatemala and tackled both Pacaya and Acatenango. She’s a serious hiker, and her opinion was immediate and unwavering: Acatenango was the standout experience.

That didn’t surprise me.

Pacaya gave me exactly what I was looking for at the time—a relatively accessible (and affordable) way to see an active volcano up close. I felt heat rising through the ground, watched molten rock spit into the air, and roasted marshmallows beside a volcano. That’s not a bad day out.

But if you’re deciding between the two and have the fitness level for it, Acatenango is the hike I would personally choose next time.

The biggest difference is the experience itself. Pacaya is about getting close to volcanic activity. Acatenango is about watching Volcán de Fuego erupt across the valley, especially after dark when bursts of lava light up the night sky.

For me, Pacaya felt like a memorable adventure. Acatenango sounds like the kind of experience people talk about for years afterward.

That said, Pacaya still fills a gap for backpackers. It’s a half-day trip from Antigua, it’s achievable for most reasonably active travelers, and it doesn’t require the time, gear, or fitness commitment of an overnight mountain trek.

If you’re short on time, Pacaya is an easy addition to an Antigua itinerary.

If you’re choosing only one volcano and you’re physically prepared for the challenge, I’d put my money on Acatenango.

Firsthand Tips for Pacaya Day Trippers

Take the footwear recommendation seriously. These sneakers from a woman in my group literally started separating from the heat.

Here are the things that actually mattered on my hike:

Wear Real Shoes

This is not the place for flimsy sneakers.

The lava rock is uneven, loose in places, and surprisingly hot. One woman in my group discovered that cheap shoe soles and volcanic heat are not a great combination.

Rent the Walking Stick

I almost skipped it.

For a few Quetzales, though, it ended up being the best money I spent all day. The footing becomes increasingly awkward once you’re walking across hardened lava fields, and I was very happy to have the extra stability.

Bring More Water Than You Think You’ll Need

I went through water faster than I expected.

Between the sun, the elevation gain, and the heat radiating from the lava fields, this hike felt much hotter than the temperature alone would suggest. I was glad I had about 1.5 liters with me.

Long Pants Are Not Optional

I originally thought the recommendation sounded overly cautious.

Then I watched someone else’s ankles start turning bright red from the heat coming through the rocks.

Wear the pants.

Don’t Feel Pressured to Go Closer

This might be the biggest lesson I took away from the day.

Your guide’s comfort level may be very different from your own. Ours certainly was.

At several points I found myself continuing forward simply because everyone else was doing it. Looking back, I should have paid more attention to my own instincts.

If you’re happy with the view, you’re allowed to stop.

Final Thoughts

Pacaya was one of the strangest hikes I’ve ever done.

I expected a volcano. I didn’t expect horse poop, melting shoes, marshmallows, a guide with a very optimistic relationship to danger signs, or finding myself stranded on a tiny ledge wondering whether I was slowly being cooked from below.

Would I do it again?

Probably not.

Am I glad I did it?

Absolutely.

Just because you can get closer doesn’t mean you should.

That’s a lesson I learned standing above a lava flow in Guatemala, waiting for our guide to come back.