Last updated on August 2, 2025 by Shannon
Is any trip to India complete without a trip to see the sacred Mother Ganges? This famous river winds through the country, giving life to northern towns and accepting life at Varanasi, where the ghats sit on the banks of India’s holy Ganges River.
After nearly two months in India—during which I witnessed the chaos of Mumbai, the beauty of the Taj Mahal, survived a few classic Indian scams, and reveled during the Holi Festival of Colors, it was time to make the pilgrimage and find the sacred waters.
We journeyed to Rishikesh after relaxing in McLeod Ganj to learn about the Tibetan culture. With my flight to Kathmandu just a week away—I knew I was going to hit Rishikesh hard.
I spent a week in Rishikesh, with days dedicated to rafting the Ganges River (which is very clean above Varanasi), bending and twisting in a yoga class, meandering the many ashrams, and enjoying my last week of Indian cuisine.
What is Rishikesh Like?

Rishikesh is a strange town unlike the other Indian towns I visited during my previous two months of backpacking from south to north. Rishikesh, a spiritual hub in India, is a tourist hotspot, but for foreigners and locals alike.
Indians travel to Rishikesh on vacation, while others see it as a pilgrimage—a chance to stay at an ashram on the holy river and soak in the divinity of temples and religions. Why?
Rishikesh is often referred to as the “Yoga Capital of the World” and is renowned for its spiritual significance. It is nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas along the banks of the holy River Ganges. The town is brimming full of ashrams, yoga centers, and meditation retreats, making it an ideal place for backpackers seeking spiritual experiences, self-discovery, and inner peace.
Most backpackers pop into Rishikesh to participate in yoga classes, meditation sessions, and spiritual workshops conducted by experienced instructors. My cousin and I were keen to dabble in all of that, but we also wanted a place where travel was just a little easier for a foreigner.

Rishikesh has a vibrant backpacker scene—among the best in Northern India (Goa in the south is hard to compete with)—with a mix of budget accommodations, hostels, and guesthouses catering to backpackers’ needs.
The town is dotted with cafes, restaurants, and shops offering a variety of cuisines, including vegetarian and vegan options. India has both of these anyways—I loved my months of vegetarian food—but I also wanted some flavors from home.
Rishikesh has a lively atmosphere and cultural diversity create a welcoming and inclusive environment for backpackers from around the world. It was fun because I actually recognized and said “hi” to backpackers that I had seen months earlier in Laos and Thailand while backpacking Southeast Asia.
Other reasons Rishikesh is worth a visit? It’s a great spot for adventurous river rafting expeditions on the Ganges, and it’s just stunning. Rishikesh is blessed with scenic surroundings—lush green forests, majestic mountains, and the blue flowing Ganges River.
Why is the Ganges Clean in Rishikesh?

The blue-green waters of the Ganges River greeted me when I exited the train station in Rishikesh. Most stories of the Ganges River are largely negative. And it’s not just the banter around town. Even Indian literature portrays the Ganges River as a festering gray slush with feces, filth, and the ashes of dead bodies clogging the banks of the river.
With those images embedded in my brain, seeing the heart of Rishikesh on the far side sun-glinted blue river surprised me. I crossed the rushing clean river on a large pedestrian bridge and landed in an area of town where motorbikes and push carts are the only transportation options clogging the streets.
The town has tons of places to stay, from ashrams to boutique hotels to hostels. I was on a budget so I went with the Shiv Shakti Hostel—which I recommend for others on a budget.
Rishikesh is essentially the first place that the sacred Ganges River, it’s located in the upper reaches of the Ganges, where the river is sourced from glacial meltwaters in the Himalayas that exit the mountains and enter the plains of India. Coupled with strict local regulations to limit plastic and trash entering the river, and the Ganges at Rishikesh is clean, clear, and worth a trip on the water.
The Ganges at Rishikesh gives no evidence of the grey slush to come. The Ganges’ poor reputation is well deserved once it reaches Varanasi, where riverside cremations and funeral pyres create a thick, polluted river that flows into the rest of the country.
What to Do in Rishikesh

Rishikesh has a lot to offer, but for many backpackers, it’s best known for the many types of yoga you can learn and practice. But there’s more besides yoga and rafting (more on that to come).
Attend Ganga Aarti at Parmarth Niketan Ashram
One of the most mesmerizing experiences in Rishikesh is witnessing the Ganga Aarti, a daily evening prayer ritual, at Parmarth Niketan Ashram.
The ceremony takes place on the banks of the Ganges, where devotees gather to offer prayers and witness the enchanting spectacle. Devotional songs, rhythmic chants, and the rhythmic waving of lamps create a spiritually uplifting atmosphere.
To attend the Ganga Aarti, arrive early to secure a good spot along the riverbank and immerse yourself in the profound devotion and tranquility.
Take a (Free) Yoga Class or Join a Retreat

I eased into the yoga scene with a free meditation class offered by the Cultural Center. The class is led by a Yogi guru and assisted by a team of pubescent girls who circle the room like vultures over a kill.
The girls adjust your position and patiently shove your body deeper into the postures. The girls’ flawless execution of the deep bends and twists intimidated me, a newbie. But yoga is about honoring your own pace so I followed the flow and postures as best as possible.
The free class was an excellent way to ensure a gentle evening workout. Plus, it stretched out the kinks from all those hours of buses and trains.
That said, numerous ashrams and yoga centers offer retreats and courses catering to all levels of practitioners. Choose a yoga and meditation class or retreat that fits your skill levels and sign up for at least one session. This will allow you to experience the transformative power of these ancient practices, learn from experienced instructors, and delve deeper into your spiritual journey.
Many retreats include accommodations, meals, and a structured program that combines yoga classes, meditation sessions, philosophy discussions, and spiritual guidance.
Otherwise it’s dead simple to sign up for a single class, or a few classes during your stay. Parmarth Niketan is the largest ashram in town and it would make a good starting point for those serious about yoga.
Explore the Beatles Ashram (Chaurasi Kutia)

For music enthusiasts and fans of the legendary band, a visit to the Beatles Ashram is a must. This abandoned ashram gained fame when the Beatles stayed there in 1968 to learn transcendental meditation.
Today, it has become a pilgrimage site for fans and offers a glimpse into the band’s journey. Roam through the graffiti-adorned buildings, meditation chambers, and lush surroundings while soaking up the artistic and historical vibes of the place. Guided tours are available to learn more about the Beatles’ association with the ashram.
Trek to Neer Garh Waterfall
It’s an easy hike to the Neer Garh Waterfall, located about 3 kilometers from Rishikesh. This picturesque waterfall is surrounded by lush greenery and offers a refreshing escape from the bustling town.
The trek to the waterfall involves traversing through rocky paths, dense forests, and crossing a few streams, adding an adventurous element to the experience. Once you reach the waterfall, you can enjoy the pristine surroundings, take a dip in the cool waters, and unwind amidst the tranquil ambiance of nature.
Eat All of the Things

Besides the rafting, yoga, and relaxed pace of it all, Rishikesh was just quietly lovely. I loved this gorgeous fruit salad and curd (you know how I love curd!) served at one of the hippy tourist restaurants. It was the tastiest of the entire trip.
The food in Rishikesh was like India put its best foot forward during my final days in the country. I had some of my favorite meals in Rishikesh—OK, that’s only partially true, I had amazing meals across the entire country! But
Day Trip to Kunjapuri Temple

Situated atop a hill at an elevation of around 1,676 meters, Kunjapuri Temple offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Himalayan range and the surrounding valleys. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Shakti, and visiting it provides a serene and spiritual experience.
To reach the temple, hire a taxi or take a shared jeep from Rishikesh to Hindolakhal and then trek for approximately 1.5 kilometers uphill. The trek is relatively moderate and takes you through scenic landscapes and lush forests.
Time your visit to the temple for sunrise or sunset, and carry warm clothing—it can get chilly at the hilltop.
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Raft the Ganges River’s Grade IV Rapids

The Ganges River at Rishikesh draws adventurists to the area since the this section of the river offers rapids ranging from Grade I to Grade IV. Guided rafting trips are easy to find in Rishikesh—book a half-day rafting trip on Viator, or they even offer overnight rafting/camping trips.
It was pretty budget-friendly to take a morning rafting trip down the river. I’m not one to pinch pennies if it’s a memorable trip—this was both memorable and affordable, so it became a must-do.
The rafting season typically runs from September to June, peaking from March to May, which is when we found ourselves in Rishikesh. No matter how you book the rafting trip, choose a reputable rafting operator, wear appropriate safety gear, and follow the instructions of the experienced guides for a memorable and thrilling rafting experience.

My cousin and I arrived early and met the four other tourists in our raft—a group of Indian twenty-somethings from Delhi who were vacationing in Rishikesh for the weekend. They were jazzed for the weekend vacation from the city and they were a lot of fun, but they were not the best paddlers.
There were times on the river when my cousin and I were the only two paddling in the boat! Two of the others, Deepak and his friend, sat at the helm chatting. Meanwhile, our guide would shout for us to paddle and they wouldn’t even listen. It got to the point where the chubbier guy was relieved of his paddling duties and instead asked to splay himself across the front of the boat to act as a weight as we went through the rapids.
That request incited the others into guffaws because he was traveling face first through the rapids. He must have swallowed bucket-loads of the Ganges River!
My cousin and I are adding to our arsenal of Hindi phrases. In addition to knowing how to say “please dance” in Hindi thanks to our time in Pushkar, we can also say “dude, paddle harder!” It’s not the handiest of phrases (when could I possible need this in the future?!), but it’s a fun parlor trick now.
This was my first rafting trip and while my arm muscles ached that evening, I’d love to try rafting again. There’s this fun adrenaline high that comes with adventure sports like rafting, climbing, and diving. And while I am not an adrenaline junky, rafting is good fun!
Besides rafting—which I highly recommend—this is a hotspot for the adventurous. You can bungee jump, rappel, cliff jump, rock climb, and kayak.
Beyond the rafting and yoga, Rishikesh is a spiritual center where people come for weeks and months to live at an ashram and meditate. This wasn’t my plan for now (I saved the meditation for a ten-day Vipassana meditation course in Nepal), so my cousin and I enjoyed exploring Rishikesh and we walked the sandy white shoreline of the Ganges River.
Fun and random anecdote: I spotted this black cow and decided to do a mini photo-shoot of the cow on the beach. He stood so tall and proud and he stood out against the white sand.
Unfortunately, one of the nearby cows was less impressed by my presence and intentions. While I was consumed with the task of framing the perfect picture, my cousin snapped a very brief video of our scramble to avoid the charge of the huge lighter colored cow. How ridiculous is it that neither of us realized the cow was charging us until he was very close!
How to Visit Rishikesh, India

Where to Stay in Rishikesh
Shiv Shakti is the best hostel in town, and it’s in the backpacker area, Lakshman Jhula, so you will find affordable eats nearby. Although many people come for the ashrams, if you’re passing through you can still practice yoga and meditate from the many hotels. Rishikesh Valley Hotel is the eco-friendly option with wooden huts and great sustainable choice. Atali Ganga Cottages has the best views in town, and Ganga Kinare Boutique Hotel is the best all-around mid-range and convenient option.
Getting to Rishikesh
Getting to Rishikesh from McLeod Ganj was brutal. It was a taxi to a bus to an overnight train. And while that’s not uncommon for backpacking India, I had eaten questionable street veggies in Dharamsala and then spent the next 15 hours becoming reacquainted with said veggies. I don’t often get sick on the road, but when I do, it takes a toll. It was a long night. But by morning I was determined to shake off the weak achy feeling and explore this new spot.
Despite that rough trip, getting to Rishikesh is relatively straightforward, and there are multiple transportation options available depending on your starting point.
By Air: The nearest airport to Rishikesh is the Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun, approximately 20 kilometers away. Several domestic airlines operate regular flights to Dehradun from major Indian cities like Delhi, Mumbai, and Bangalore. From the airport, hire a pre-paid taxi or take a shared cab to reach Rishikesh.
By Train: Rishikesh has its own railway station called Rishikesh Railway Station, but it’s small with limited connectivity. A more convenient option is to take a train to Haridwar, which is well-connected to major Indian cities. Haridwar is about 25 kilometers away from Rishikesh, and from there, you can take a taxi, shared auto-rickshaw, or bus to reach Rishikesh.
By Road: Rishikesh is well-connected by road and can be accessed by bus or private vehicle. Several state-run and private buses operate regular services to Rishikesh from major cities in North India. The road journey offers scenic views of the mountains and the Ganges River. If you prefer more flexibility, you can also hire a taxi or drive to Rishikesh, as the town is well-connected by national highways.
Once you reach Rishikesh, you can easily explore the town on foot or hire a bicycle or scooter for local transportation.
What to Read
I can’t imagine backpacking India without the newest Lonely Planet India. Although some of the hotel recommendations and restaurants become lower quality once listed (because of the influx of travelers), the transportation and activity recommendations were spot on.
I wouldn’t have explored half of the neat places without the guidebook there to recommend towns and activities off the beaten path a bit. To keep the weight down, I ripped out the sections that I no longer needed as I traveled.
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Reading: The White Tiger by Aravind Adiga. This was among my favorite reads so far this year. I am just finishing it up—the narrator’s voice is bizarre, but the story was compelling and it has given me a lot of insight into the Indian culture without reading like a history book. Highly recommend it, and I have a list of other country-based travel reads too. This is one of my favorite ways to learn about the places I am visiting!
Where am I really? Tuscany, I took a bike ride through the wineries outside of Florence!

This is the part of India that I am most looking forward to going to. I can’t wait, but it will be at least two months into our trip until we get there. I really want to take a yoga course there for a few weeks. Did you see any good places that offered intensive yoga instruction?
That’s a tough one Deb – I went through my journal to see if I wrote anything down to no avail. I was pretty sick at that time so I just went with a gentle class… but there were just tons of other actual classes out there. Wish I could help more! There are several ashrams too that offer some courses :-)
Wow, an amazing experience. More things to add to the bucket list :)
Had no idea the Ganges was clean at any point along its path. Good to know!
I didn’t either until I got to Rishikesh – it still took a bit of mind over matter to let the water splash on me!