A Little Story… An Unexpected Stop in Wadi Halfa, Sudan

Last updated on September 11, 2023 by Shannon

Before they became long-term travelers blogging at The Planet D, Dave and Deb took and epic bike journey across the length of Africa in the Tour d’Afrique. I’m not the most adventurous of travelers, so I asked them to share a story from their trip that best illustrates the themes they encountered during their time in Sudan.

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Famine, war, drought, and suffering—that’s what comes to mind when people hear the word Sudan. It was been prominent in the news for years; the war in Darfur is a devastating genocide that has caused thousands of deaths and casualties in the country. 

Before we visited Sudan in 2008, I didn’t know what to expect. I had only seen videos on the news of a desert country with very little infrastructure and people wrapped in headscarves and white linen.

Like many others, in the early aughts I learned more of the hardships when George Clooney and Mia Farrow advocating for ending the war. They brought attention to the situation through media.

Falling in Love with Sudan

Despite knowing so little of the country before we arrived, it didn’t take us long to fall in love with Sudan.

We had taken the ferry across Lake Nasser from Aswan, Egypt to Wadi Halfa, Sudan. When we stepped off the ship, the energy immediately changed. We didn’t see any main roads or crazy traffic, and no crowds of people swarmed us at customs.

Originally, we planned to simply camp overnight and head further south at the crack of dawn. Now, however, those plans had to change: Our support vehicles were delayed at the border and we had an entire unplanned day in Wadi Halfa.

We had entered a land that few have visited, a land even fewer think about. My husband and I were cycling across Africa—through ten countries en route from Cairo to Cape Town—and we had entered the unknown. We had discovered one of the least visited countries on the planet.

But nobody stays in Wadi Halfa. It is a run down, dusty border town that most travelers quickly exit.

And that’s where the tragedy lies.

A Brief History of Wadi Halfa

Wadi Halfa is a located in the northern region of Sudan, on the banks of Lake Nubia. It has a long and rich history dating back to ancient times. Here’s a brief overview of the history of Wadi Halfa:

Ancient history: The region around Wadi Halfa has been inhabited for thousands of years, and it is thought that the area was first settled by ancient Egyptian and Nubian civilizations. The region was an important trade and transportation hub, and it was home to a number of temples and other ancient structures.

Colonial period: During the colonial period, Wadi Halfa became an important center for trade and transportation. It was a major port on the Nile River and was used as a staging point for expeditions into the Sudanese interior.

Independence: Sudan gained independence from Britain in 1956, and Wadi Halfa became an important center for trade and transportation in the new nation. It was also a key strategic location during the civil war that took place in Sudan in the 1980s and 1990s.

Modern day: Today, Wadi Halfa is a small town with a population of around 30,000 people. It is an important transportation hub and is also a popular tourist destination, due to its rich history and beautiful location on the banks of Lake Nubia.

Things to Do in Wadi Halfa

On our first morning, Dave and I sat down at a coffee shop hoping for a cup of tea—it was one of the only things to do in Wadi Halfa. A fellow patron named Abdulla Ahmed immediately greeted us with a warm smile and asked us to eat with him—another popular activity in a small town with just a handful of restaurants.

Bowls of spiced beans and pitas multiplied before us as Abdulla talked to us about life, all the while scooping spoonfuls of sugar into our small glasses.

1. Take Time to Chat With the Locals

Abdulla was a man filled with wisdom and sadness. He shared with us the history of his village—how it was the most green and lush city in all of the Sudan until Egypt built the Aswan Dam. The dam flooded the old city of Wadi Halfa, displacing a staggering 100,000 people.

Today, the residents of Wadi Halfa are slowly coming back, and it now has a population of 30,000.  Abdulla used to be a professor in Khartoum, but he has returned to his place of birth and is hoping that it will eventually thrive once again.

The three of us talked for more than two hours, and when we offered to pay, Abdulla refused. He said it was good luck to meet us, and he enjoyed the chance to talk with us since so many travelers rarely take the time for even a cup of tea. 

Abdulla had very little, but was open to sharing. I will never forget him; a proud man with a possessing a sense of dignity you so rarely find. His eyes contained a multitude of complexities, his clothes were impeccably white, and he commanded attention.

2. Visit the Wadi Halfa Museum

The Wadi Halfa Museum is a small museum located in the town that houses a collection of artifacts and exhibits related to the history and culture of the region. The museum is a great place to learn more about the history of Wadi Halfa and the surrounding area.

On our visit to the town hall, we saw photographs of a happier time in Wadi Halfa. Palm trees lined the city’s streets and grass grew in abundance. Now the town is barren; erosion and loss of nutrients in the soil have made the land dry and inhospitable to the people who had cultivated it for centuries.

3. Explore the ancient ruins

The area around Wadi Halfa is home to a number of ancient ruins, including the Temple of Amun and the Temple of Dendur. These ruins are a testament to the rich history of the region and are a fascinating place to explore.

4. Go fishing

Lake Nubia is home to a variety of fish species and is a popular place for fishing. You can hire a guide or bring your own gear and spend some time casting a line in the lake.

5. Take a boat tour

Lake Nubia is a beautiful place to explore by boat, and there are a number of tour companies that offer boat tours of the lake. These tours are a great way to see the lake and to learn more about the history and culture of the region.

6. Relax on the beach

The shores of Lake Nubia are home to a number of beautiful beaches, and they are a great place to relax and enjoy the natural beauty of the region. These are a few of the best beaches near Wadi Halfa:

1. West Bank Beach: West Bank Beach is a beautiful beach located on the western shore of Lake Nubia, near Wadi Halfa. The beach is known for its clear waters and white sandy shores, and it is a popular spot for swimming and sunbathing.
2. Abri Beach: Abri Beach is another beautiful beach located on the western shore of Lake Nubia, near Wadi Halfa. The beach is known for its crystal clear waters and its white sandy shores, and it is a popular spot for swimming and sunbathing.
3. Karari Beach: Karari Beach is a beautiful beach located on the eastern shore of Lake Nubia, near Wadi Halfa. The beach is known for its clear waters and its white sandy shores, and it is a popular spot for swimming and sunbathing.
4. Tug Arbaat Beach: Tug Arbaat Beach is a beautiful beach located on the eastern shore of Lake Nubia, near Wadi Halfa. The beach is known for its clear waters and its white sandy shores, and it is a popular spot for swimming and sunbathing.

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It was people like Abdulla that I saw throughout our time in Sudan. Everyone waved to us with quiet dignity as we passed. They were always smiling and were so very generous.

They may not have been able to speak our language—they may not have even understood why crazy foreigners were riding in spandex through the desert!—but whenever they saw us, local Sudanese people beckoned us to stop to say hello.

We never saw the conflict that plagues the Sudanese people. We saw a warm and friendly people that talked to us about peace. We saw villages frozen in time, and we saw families and communities living their lives as they have done for centuries. 

The only thing that we experienced in the Sudan was kindness and curiosity. It’s a shame to see yet another country that the world has seemingly forgotten.

I believer that tourism can help save a country. If people come and a country thrives, what is the need to fight? There are complex layers of conflict in this region, that won’t go away, but if the international community takes notice, then positive change really can happen.

I’m not an advocate and I’m not political—I don’t claim to know the intricate details of peacekeeping and global issues. All I can write is my own experience. From the conversations Dave and I had with the people we met in Sudan, they would like more visitors to experience their culture. They are proud of their country and would love to show it off.

I am saddened, however, whenever I think of Abdulla. He visited us at our camp later that evening after we had shared breakfast. Our trucks had arrived and the cycling race would continue the next morning. The next few days were going to be brutal, and we had to change our tires and tune our bikes to handle the deep desert sands.

The sun was setting and Dave and I had very little time to talk. I saw the hurt in Abdulla’s eyes. I wanted to give him the time that he deserved, to repay him for his hospitality and generosity.

Yet I did not.

He left and tears came to my eyes: Why didn’t I just forget about the tires? I could throw on my headlamp later and finish. Instead, I continued to work.

It’s easier than you think to miss the most memorable moments on the road and I live with regret that I didn’t prioritize the connection we had with Abdulla, prioritize the opportunity to share drinks and have one last memorable conversation.