Last updated on August 2, 2025 by Shannon
I left Agra in the dead of night with the promise of the Golden Temple on the horizon when I awoke in Amritsar, India. My cousin and I had a wild few weeks journeying north from Mumbai.
We marveled at the palaces in Udaipur, the camels and monkeys in charming Pushkar, the colors of celebrating Holi, and the splendor of the Taj Mahal.
Most of this adventure took place in the Indian state of Rajasthan, a tourist-heavy part of India and one of the harder regions to travel. The population is dense and tourists are a both a fascination for the locals and a source of wealth.

Arriving in Amritsar
Heading to the northwestern Indian state of Punjab, my cousin and I hoped to find a different pace of life in the mountains of northern India. And we weren’t wrong, it’s an entirely different part of India both geographically and culturally.
My cousin and I visited Agra on a fly-by visit, only spending one day in the city to visit the Taj Mahal, and then we planned to sleep on the overnight train to Amritsar. While this is easy in theory, it also meant that we spent several hours loitering in the train terminals waiting for the train that was, naturally, late.

Before I get into the Golden Temple visit, let’s take a brief detour into what it’s like to use the Indian trains.
Indian trains are either exactly on time and you rapidly board the train on your merry way. Or, as if often the case, you to spend several mind-numbingly dull hours staring at the train-tracks while Indians in your vicinity watch your every move.
Watching fair-skinned tourists a pastime for locals. It may even be elevated to a sport. They expect a show and a entertained by even the smallest acts—like buying a chai.

But, I am an actress and there’s a craving for more drama than just a mere chai. Sometimes, I just read a book. But other times, I’ve started to come up with fun ways to entertain those who watch my every move as I wait.
With the lyrics to a Bollywood dance hit now stashed in my repertoire—thanks to the dance parties at Tulsi Palace in Pushkar—I’ve decided to just dance. When the starring starts to grate, or if I’m bored, I’ve instead treat the platform like a stage, sometimes I grab a toddler, and I bust out my best approximation of the current bollywood-esque dance moves.
I jut my hips, pulsate, shimmy, and circle to the sound of my own tone deaf singing and clapping.
My cousin is horrified. But it’s a fun and ridiculous chance to break the ice with everyone else on the platform. And not only do I find this wildly amusing, but it’s a smash hit with those around me.
It’s like they had been watching me just knowing that I could bust a move at any moment. And when I confirm their suspicions, they are delighted. Just delighted to join in the clapping and send their kids into the dance circle.
So, that’s what I’m doing when I talk about passing time at train stations. Travel is so much about waiting that this dancing has proven a fun diversion. And as we left Agra, I was happy for the bit of exercise because it was a 17 hour train ride into Punjab, a state in the north. The train bypassed Delhi — I have to leave from there to Kathmandu — and headed straight for Amritsar, a town that borders Pakistan.
History of The Golden Temple in Amritsar, India

Amritsar is home to the holiest temple in Sikhism, Harmandir Sahib, literally translated as “the abode of God,” but informally known as the Golden Temple.
Completed in 1604, the temple not only embodies the principles of Sikhism in the the design, but is also designed to welcome people of all religious faiths and traditions.
More than walking into a church to witness the beautiful frescoes, the Golden Temple is intended as a place where all can feel welcome and feel a part of what is happening. The daily lunch served is open to all, and more than 100,000 people each day pass through to worship and pay respects.

Throughout my time in India, I am reading many books about India as a way to better understand the culture and country, books about India and books written by Indian authors.
By the time I arrived in Amritsar, the history and culture intrigued me. While my Lonely Planet India wrote of the a calm splendor of to the gilded temple, it was the history that also appealed to me.
Many of the books I have read these past months tell of the unrest that occurred in the 1980’s in this region. There were violent Sikh-Hindi clashes that led to unrest. And this conflict contributed to the death of India’s former Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi. She was assassinated by her Sikh bodyguards because of the military action she ordered within the holy temple. None of the books, novels, and historical accounts have left out the effect of this conflict on modern India.
Visiting the Golden Temple

The information swam through my head as I took a rickshaw from the train station into town as close as I could get to my guesthouse. The rickshaws are forbidden from entering areas of the old-town near the temple because of air and noise pollution.
That meant hoofing into to the hotel, then dropping my bag and heading straight to the temple. It’s a holy place and with just a couple of days in town, I wanted to see the temple, understand the process of visiting, and also just relax by the sacred pool surrounding the Golden Temple.
Even without big vehicles, the area around the temple pulses with a frenetic, overwhelming pace. It’s not my favorite Indian city—in fact, I couldn’t wait to leave. But the temple is beautiful and the setting wonderful. I’m still learning about Sikhism—there is much I don’t understand—so I took at stance of watching and learning from those around me.
It was interesting to sit along the shore and watch the Sikhs bath in the sacred lake. Sikh children of every age were taken to the water’s edge, stripped of their clothes, and dipped into the waters. Older Sikhs also stripped down to boxers and soaked themselves in the waters. It’s a pilgrimage site for many, and a holy site of worship for all.


Lines form for hours to visit inside the temple, but there’s no rush. The hustle of the city is blocked from sound and view, it’s just a quiet place to respectfully view and witness.
Amritsar was a quick stop on the trip on our way north to Dharamshala. We only took two days to visit the temple and sample the Punjabi food. It was a welcome change from the pace in Rajasthan. I hadn’t yet realized how different I would find the culture, food, and religion in different parts of India.
Amritsar is a welcome place to taste the Punjabi food and culture. It’s intriguing to witness how one change—a religion—alters everything from how they worship to how they dress.
Everyone, even small children, cover their heads in some fashion. This has spawned an entire line of fashion too as we saw turbans of every color and then found internet and studied how the turban color can change the meaning.


Tips for Visiting Amritsar’s Golden Temple
The Golden Temple is more than just a sight to tick off on your list of things to see in India—it’s a deeply spiritual place and filled with pilgrims. For that reason, here are 12 tips to keep in mind when visiting the Golden Temple.
Respect the Dress Code: Adhere to the modest dress code by covering your head and dressing appropriately.
Remove Footwear: Take off your shoes and socks before entering the temple complex as a sign of respect. This is a non-negotiable.
Carry a Head Scarf: Bring a scarf or handkerchief to cover your head. If you don’t have one, you easily can rent/purchase one nearby.

Use the Footwear Storage: Store your shoes in the designated area provided near the entrance for safekeeping. This is polite for the many others who will enter the Golden Temple behind you and don’t want to trip on your shoes. It will also help ensure you can find both of your shoes when you’re ready to leave.
Cleanse Your Feet: Before entering the main sanctum, make your way to the “Parikrama” path that encircles the Sarovar. Here, you can wash your feet and cleanse them in the designated area.
Maintain Cleanliness: Help preserve the temple’s sanctity by keeping the premises clean—that means dispose of your trash properly.
Embrace Silence: Maintain a quiet and serene atmosphere inside the temple complex, refrain from loud conversations or noise. You’re there to soak in the spiritual vibes.
Follow the Queue: Respect the queues and lines when entering the main sanctum and other areas of the Golden Temple. They can get long, so if you don’t like long lines enter very early or at off-peak times of day.
Participate in Langar: Join the community kitchen and partake in the langar (free communal meal) to experience the Sikh tradition of service and equality. Savor the simple and delicious vegetarian food, regardless of your caste, creed, or background.
Observe the Rituals: Witness the prayer ceremonies and rituals conducted at the temple, immersing yourself in the spiritual ambiance.
Photograph Respectfully: Capture the beauty of the Golden Temple without disrespecting the locals there for non-tourism reasons. That means staying unobtrusive, not using flash or shoving your camera in someone’s face.
Lead with Mindful Interactions: Interact with the devotees and volunteers with kindness and respect, learning about their customs and beliefs.
Seek Guidance: If you have any questions or require assistance, approach the temple staff or volunteers who are ready to help and guide visitors. They will help you understand what you can partake in, and how.
What You Should Know About Visiting Amritsar

Embrace the Local Cuisine
Amritsar is renowned for its delicious Punjabi cuisine, particularly its street food. Don’t miss out on trying local specialties like Amritsari kulcha, butter chicken, and lassi. Explore the bustling streets and indulge in the flavors of authentic Punjabi cuisine.
Time Your Visit to the Golden Temple
The Golden Temple is a must-visit attraction in Amritsar, and it can get quite crowded, especially during religious festivals. To make the most of your visit, plan to arrive early in the morning to witness the tranquil ambiance and beat the crowds.
Be Mindful of Religious Etiquette
Amritsar is a city with deep religious sentiments. When visiting temples and other religious sites, dress modestly, remove your shoes when required, and respect the customs and rituals. Familiarize yourself with the cultural norms and practices to show reverence and sensitivity.
Explore the Historic Jallianwala Bagh
Jallianwala Bagh is a historic garden that holds great significance in India’s struggle for independence. Take a moment to learn about the tragic events that unfolded here in 1919 and pay homage to the victims. It’s a somber yet important site that reflects the city’s history.
Engage with the Local Community
Amritsar is known for its warm hospitality and friendly locals. Engage in conversations, interact with the people, and learn about their way of life. Don’t hesitate to seek recommendations or guidance from the locals, as they can provide valuable insights and enrich your experience in Amritsar.
Quickly Zip Around Town
Although private taxis are available, of course, use local transportation options such as auto-rickshaws or cycle-rickshaws to navigate the busy streets. These modes of transportation are commonly available throughout the city and can be a convenient and cost-effective way to travel short distances without getting bogged down in traffic jams. Negotiate the fare before starting your journey or ensure that the rickshaw driver uses a meter.
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