A Little Family Travel… Gelato, Bells & Big Bikes in Rome

Last updated on November 24, 2025 by Shannon

I spent the better part of a week in Rome this past spring with my 3.5-year-old son and my 60-something parents. Having done all the things in Rome while backpacking Europe in my 20s, I went in with modest expectations, a lot of snacks, and a toddler who has specific ideas about the pace and sites fit for our trip (spoiler alert: He wanted to find playgrounds).

Over our six days though, both my parents and my kiddo found their own kind of magic in the Eternal City. My parents were often content to sit on a terrace sipping coffee, and my son is an avowed lover of “ding dongs” (church bells), large fountains, and gelato—so Rome was a hit.

Exploring Rome together was one of our better multi-generational family trips (Paris in winter with a baby was less fun). Here are the things my parents and toddler genuinely loved (and still talk about), plus ideas throughout to make a trip to Rome easier for everyone.

Family-Friendly Things We All Loved in Rome (Even the Toddler)

1. Riding the “Big Bike” in Villa Borghese

📍 Pedal-assist “Bici Pincio” bike rental in the Borghese Gardens, near the Spanish Steps

This was a highlight of the week for everyone—all three generations rode together through the shady park on a giant quad-style electric bike. I drove, but there was a kids’ steering wheel, and pedals for all of the grownups.

My son gripped his tiny steering wheel, shouting “faster!” every few minutes, and pointed out every dog and fountain we passed. He delighted when we got stuck in a ditch and I had to haul us out. But mostly, we all enjoyed the breeze as we as we coasted down Villa Borghese’s wide, shady lanes. We also cruised past sweeping vistas of the city skyline, where my son delighted as the church bells’ song echoed across the city at the top of the hour.

We got off the bike to explore a few corners of the park, but we mostly just enjoyed the ride. It was a bargain at €25 for an hour on the four-seater (and €15 for a two-seater). Once it was over, we found a shady spot near a busker rocking out on the guitar (my son and my dad were entranced), unpacked a small picnic I had picked up from the market on our walk to Villa Borghese, and enjoyed the vibes.

2. Sampling Gelato Every Day

📍 Everywhere

This is an obvious for any trip to Rome—with or without kids—but we really “primed the pump” for my kiddo. He knew that when all of the churches and touring were done for the day, he could try a new gelato flavor—his favorite part of the day. He sampled strawberry, mango, stracciatella, and cinnamon. The adults enjoyed the classics: stracciatella, hazelnut, and lemon, with a few out-there flavors thrown in there to keep things interesting.

As for picking a gelateria to go—it’s so important to consult Google maps. I visit Italy frequently since we live close (Spain) and friends live in Sicily, so my standards are high. Many gelaterias have fancy, eye-catching gelato display cases—avoid! These are usually overpriced and touristic.

If you spend a few minutes using Google maps, you can find a gelateria even locals would visit—even near the most touristy spots. For example: Nearly every gelato shop near the Spanish Steps was overpriced, gimmicky, and poorly rated on Google Maps, but La Strega Nocciola knocked it out of the park.

3. Engaging in a Colosseum Treasure Hunt

📍 Colosseum with a printable scavenger hunt

Let’s be honest: Without the treasure map, interest in the Colosseum would’ve lasted five minutes for my three-year-old. But another blogger’s free printable scavenger hunt completely saved the experience. He clutched his “map,” declared himself an explorer, and gleefully ticked off lions and gates and a “big, big cross.”

That interest in checking off items on the map gave my parents time to take a fairly sedate pace through the long hallway of artifacts and information. We visited in early May, so it wasn’t too crowded (also thanks to the timed entry tickets you have to buy ahead of time). We spent about an hour inside, and no one felt rushed. We were also all losing steam and ready for dinner, so the Colosseum felt like a great way to end our first day in Rome.

Parent Tip: Print something interactive before you go. The Colosseum is big, crowded, and mostly rubble—a tough sell without a toddler-friendly hook. Same goes with the Roman Forum, but there’s also a printable for that. Oh, and the Colosseum has an elevator if you bring a stroller, or if your parents are low-mobility (my mom has a bum knee) and need a lift upstairs.

4. Admiring Rome’s Many Public Fountains

Most of my son’s biggest grins in Rome came from the city’s fountains—the grand ones and the utilitarian ones.

At the Trevi Fountain, he threw in penny after penny (six in total) and leaned in to touch the water every time we passed, despite the many signs (and side-eyes). Each visit brought a new wish and a hopeful glance—he was convinced that one more coin might unlock something magical.

At the base of the Spanish Steps, the lower fountains were less crowded and a bit more forgiving for kids who just wanted to lean over and touch the water spray. No one scolded him here, so we let him splash for a few minutes before munching on fresh roasted chestnuts from a nearby cart.

But it was Rome’s little drinking fountains—the nasoni—that completely stole his heart. He first spotted a teenager plug the spout to make a thin stream arc from the top hole, and after that, he had to try every one we passed. He got soaked more than once perfecting his “water trick,” but it was pure joy. And for us, it was a welcome way to cool off in the May heat—and to refill our water bottles with aqueduct-fed water straight from the source.

He was so proud when he finally figured out how to drink from the arc on his own. Back home in Spain, he was genuinely disappointed to discover that most fountains don’t work that way.

Note: Rome’s nasoni fountains are scattered all over the city and pour clean, cold drinking water—bring a reusable bottle and a dry shirt if your kid’s likely to go all in. And the Trevi area gets packed, so visit early in the morning or after dinner for a bit more space to toss in a coin or two.

5. Making a Toddler-Tolerable Vatican Visit

📍 St. Peter’s Basilica + Piazza San Pietro

Let’s be honest—toddlers and Vatican Museums don’t really mix. We skipped the full museum tour and Sistine Chapel entirely (it was closed for the Conclave). But we did make time for a walk through St. Peter’s Basilica and Piazza San Pietro. The wide-open square gave my kiddo space to roam while we admired the architecture and soaked in the significance.

The real win? The bells. We happened to be there when they rang out overhead, and my toddler’s eyes lit up. Meanwhile, my parents got the spiritual and historical dose they were hoping for without anyone melting down inside the museum halls.

Bonus: If your child still naps in a stroller, that would be the best time to tackle the museums, especially if you have your heart set on the Sistine Chapel. We used the free Rick Steves audio guide for St. Peter’s Basilica (he offers one for the Sistine Chapel too) and deeply enjoyed the history and commentary. Meanwhile—it was the holes in the floors with grates covering them that kept my toddler entertained. He was obsessed with watching the people in the crypts walk by down below.

6. Bonus: Exploring Ostia Antica as a Day Trip

We took the train to Ostia Antica and it was a surprising hit. This Roman ruin site is quiet, stroller-manageable, and full of space to explore. My son could run ahead, my dad took his time photographing everything, and my mom and I wandered together reading the info boards. It was a relaxing day out of the city and only a 40-minute train ride.

You can read the full post on my main blog: A Toddler-Friendly Day Trip to Ostia Antica

What Helped Make Rome a Win

Where We Stayed in Rome as a Family

Our hotel near Campo de’ Fiori had a communal kitchen and two double rooms with a connecting door. Il Tempio Della Capitale made a great base for mid-day rests.

Our Favorite Kid-Friendly Eats in Rome

Breakfast Win in Trastevere: Mammò Trastevere on Piazza di Giovanni della Malva was a favorite. Good coffee, affordable Western-style breakfast, and the nearby plaza offered enough space to entertain my squirmy kid while we waited for the food.

Chestnuts at the Spanish Steps: Fresh roasted chestnuts from a vendor near the base kept all of us happy (and the hangry at bay) before we rode the nearby elevator to the top of the steps (and then onward to the nearby Villa to ride the big bikes).

Small Wins & Tips for Success

• Low-key starts were key. We always had a morning snack in the hotel fridge for my son—yogurt, fruit, toast—meaning we never felt rushed to get out the door. We started most days at Mammò Trastevere just over the river from our hotel, then we were well-located to explore. Most days also included a mid-afternoon break to encourage a toddler nap in the stroller. We aimed for one main activity per day (plus a park or snack break), and that rhythm really worked for the multigenerational aspect (even my dad needed a nap one day).
• Getting Around: We walked everywhere in Rome. Public transport + strollers = chaos. The buses and trains work well though, and we used both for our Ostia Antica day trip.
• Use Google Maps to cluster activities and plan breaks. I combed through Google Maps and other travel blogs for restaurant recommendations, top-rated gelaterias, and historic sites hidden down alleyways. I starred all of the recommendations on my map. Then, as we walked around, I always had a fun way to break up walks longer than 20 minutes. And it allowed us to easily pivot when hangry.

• Slot in fun stuff around the adult stops: We also visited the Pantheon—my son was unimpressed, but my parents were floored. We bought tickets ahead of time to avoid the crushing lines—we had no wait. And with snacks in hand and a bit of stroller pacing, it worked out for all of us.
• Expect a different Rome by season. Spring gave us warm afternoons, cool mornings, and crowds that felt manageable. Summer, though, is another story—heat radiates off the stones, shade is scarce, and everything moves slower with a toddler in tow. If you’re visiting June–August, plan early starts, long siestas, and any big sights before 10 a.m. I suffered from mild heat stroke my first time in Rome 20 years ago after not hydrating properly during July sight-seeing.
• Bathrooms require strategy. Tactical wees at every stop were essential. Public restrooms are rare, so we relied on cafés, gelaterias, and museum stops—basically anywhere we bought a snack or coffee. If traveling with little kids, don’t pass up a bathroom you see.
• Stroller notes: Rome’s cobblestones are rough. We brought a lightweight travel stroller and made it work, but something with bigger wheels and better suspension would’ve helped. Ours came in handy for midday naps in cool, echoey churches or shady spots. (I used a mesh Ergobaby Omni 360 carrier for years, and I’d recommend it for babies and small toddlers)
• Day Trip Bonus: We took the train to Ostia Antica—easy, low crowds, stroller-manageable, and full of space to explore. You can read the full post here.

Would We Visit Rome With a Toddler Again?

Rome was more toddler-friendly than I expected, especially since we let go of any sightseeing checklist and followed the group’s energy instead. We skipped the Vatican tour in favor of a wander with the free Rick Steves audio guide (great decision), kept our days short, and built in lots of snack stops. Although I had done my research, the bikes were one of those things I’m surprised no one else mentions as a kid-friendly activity in Rome. It was truly a hit for us.

Rome works best if you accept that you’re visiting to soak it in, not check off every major sight. That mindset shift made all the difference for us. I’d go back in a heartbeat with a kid of any age.