A Little Green… Driving Ireland’s Rugged Ring of Kerry

Last updated on April 21, 2026 by Shannon

A gentle sprinkle of rain dusted the windshield of the car as the smell of wet grass leaked through the air vent of my rental car. I was slowly puttering my way around the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland–more popularly known as Ireland’s stunning Ring of Kerry.

The Ring of Kerry is one of the most popular driving routes in Ireland for good reason—it really is stunning. If you’re planning a summer trip, spring is the time to book accommodations and sketch out your route, especially if you want to stay overnight in smaller towns or venture onto the Skellig Ring without rushing.

Summer availability in smaller towns (Sneem, Portmagee, Caherciveen) disappears first—book those early if you want to stay along the route instead of backtracking.

How & When to Drive the Ring of Kerry

Quick reality check: It’s not a relaxing coastal drive the whole way—parts are narrow, slow, and require attention. The payoff is worth it, but it’s not a cruise.

It can be overrun with tourists during peak season. But drive it even slightly off-season, like I did during mid-September, and the 179 km (111 miles) along the Ring of Kerry is a sedate undertaking.

During the drive, I only encountered one large oncoming tour bus careening around a sharp corner on a skinny country road (note that I took the route clockwise so that I was not stuck driving the Ring of Kerry behind these buses, but instead able to pull into the bushes on tiny roads and let them pass).

The Ring of Kerry’s popularity is both its blessing and its challenge. In high season, narrow roads and tour buses can feel overwhelming—but staying overnight in smaller towns and lingering away from the main pull-outs dramatically changes the experience. When you slow down, eat locally, and sleep along the route, the Ring feels less like a checklist and more like a living place.

Although most travelers spend one day—it takes a minimum of six hours if you make some stops—it’s also a lovely experience spread across two or more days. I met a backpacker in Cork, and he decided to hitch a ride with me to the Ring of Beara and the Ring of Kerry. We agreed that we should take it slow to really sink into the beauty throughout two full days.

Driving slowly meant I could actually take in the views instead of white-knuckling the road. Having my own car—and choosing a small one—made it easy to detour into quiet villages, pull over often, and wander without a plan. That flexibility ended up shaping the entire experience—nowadays using a site like Discover Cars.com is an easy way to nab a great rental car deal.

There are so many incredible stops and things to do along the Ring of Kerry, that we had a few firm plans, and we left the rest up to chance as we drove and explored.

Best Things to Do Along the Ring of Kerry

1. Stop in Sneem

Stopping in Sneem turned out a brilliant idea. It’s a tiny Irish town (about 600 people) with one of everything you might possibly need, and a beautiful river also gushes through town.

The ice cream is noteworthy, and slippery stone steps lead down to one portion of the riverbed. This was a perfect place to perch and devour our fresh ice cream. With a sugar high coming on, we stretched our legs by following the river for a bit.

My secret confession to you? I’m not adept at jumping and balancing on slick rocks. I left the river with one side of my body drenched from a failed attempt to launch myself between two hulking rocks.

2. Drive Along the Skellig Ring

After puttering around Sneem for a bit and relaxing to the sound of the rushing river, we headed toward the more rugged and less-traveled Skellig Ring. I’m always surprised more travelers skip the Skellig Ring—a short detour off the main loop that runs through Portmagee, Valentia Island, and Waterville.

It features sweeping views of Skellig Michael (a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Star Wars fan-favorite) and pretty islands. Plus, parts of this area are in the Gaeltacht, where Irish is still spoken daily—so it’s doubly fun to stop by and pop into any small villages you find!

We had planned to sleep in one of these small towns, but we learned a hard lesson: Many hostels and B&Bs close in off-season!

3. Stay a Night in Caherciveen

Our plans for the night were foiled and we instead continued driving along the route, eventually staying the night in Caherciveen—what a happy chance encounter because you should absolutely stop in Caherciveen, too! You can then wander Ballycarbery Castle and the Old Stone Barracks, and then marvel at a seventh-century stone fort.

We bunked at Sive Hostel we both loved, and the town had plenty of other accommodations, too. Plus it’s a small town but not without libations, so we enjoyed a couple of pints to the jumping, lively sounds of live Irish music—it was the perfect reward after a long driving day.

4. Hike the Kerry Way

Although most people rent a car to explore the Ring of Kerry, the Kerry Way is a 215-mile (346 km) long-distance walking trail that takes you through the heart of the Ring of Kerry. The trail is well marked and offers stunning views of the countryside and coast. You can choose to do the entire trail, or just a section, depending on your time and fitness level, and there are a variety of accommodations along the way for hikers.

5. Visit the Skellig Michael Islands

Skellig Michael is a rocky island located off the coast of County Kerry that is home to a well-preserved monastic settlement dating back to the 6th century. The island is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and is only accessible by boat. Tours depart from Portmagee, a small village on the Ring of Kerry.

A quick planning note: landings on Skellig Michael are strictly limited, weather-dependent, and often sell out well in advance—especially in summer. Even when boats run, rough seas can cancel trips at the last minute. If seeing the island up close is important to you, build flexibility into your itinerary and consider the boat journey itself part of the experience.

If landing tours are sold out, boat trips that circle the island are much easier to get—and still worth doing.

6. Go Birdwatching

The Ring of Kerry is home to a wide variety of bird species, including puffins, gannets, and seabirds. There are several designated birdwatching areas in the region, including the Kerry Cliffs, the Skellig Islands—as well as the Blasket Islands off the coast of Dingle.

The Kerry International Dark-Sky Reserve is not only a good spot for birdwatching, but it’s one of the best places in the world to see the stars.

7. Explore the Historic Towns and Villages

Some places to consider visiting include Killarney, a popular tourist destination with a variety of accommodation and dining options and Kenmare, a picturesque town known for its artisanal food and craft shops.

8. Take a Boat Tour

This Guided Boat Tour to Innisfallen Island is a winner—interesting and beautiful in equal turns. And I highly recommend the Gap of Dunloe Tour by Foot & Boat for a family-friendly day trip from Killarney.

9. Go Horseback Riding

Several stables along the Ring of Kerry offer guided horseback riding tours of the region for riders of all levels, taking you through beautiful countryside and along the coast.

A lot of the magic here is that the horses can take you away from the roadways and into the countryside. You’ll horseback ride over gentle hills and rugged coastline with some of the most sweeping views possible of all that the Ring of Kerry offers.

10. Spend Time at Killarney National Park

The Ring of Kerry is gorgeous and ends in the Killarney National Park. The park is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve and encompasses a huge portion of the land around the city of Killarney.

There are many bus tours in the area, but I opted to park and walk through the small, lightly marked tourist trails. By visiting independently, it’s easy to find tiny paths leading away from the Muckross House, and other key attractions.

Muckross House and Gardens is a Victorian mansion located in the heart of Killarney National Park. The house is surrounded by beautiful gardens and offers guided tours of the house and grounds. The gardens are also open to the public and are a popular spot for picnics and leisurely strolls.

My efforts to escape the crowds were rewarded when I spotted two red deer—Killarney National Park has Ireland’s only remaining herd of the red deer, so I felt pretty lucky to spot him.

We had a staring contest for several minutes (that could be a lie—it felt like several minutes, but was probably closer to 30 seconds!) before he scampered off.

Killarney’s lakes on a sunny day are the perfect place for a picnic, and although I only had trail mix, I hunkered down in the rare, sunny weather. The lakes here are magnificently pretty, with deeply blue and brown peaty waters contrasting with the bright, almost unnatural green grass surrounding the lakes.

The weather only partially cooperated during my drive of Ring of Kerry, so I spent the better part of several days slightly damp but surrounded by wet, lush, green Irish countryside. But after seeing the natural beauty Ireland has in spades, I have little room to complain too much. 

Should You Drive Dingle Peninsula vs Ring of Kerry vs Beara Peninsula

If you’re trying to decide between Ireland’s three best-known scenic drives, the answer mostly comes down to time and tolerance for crowds.

The Dingle Peninsula is the shortest loop, at about 48 km, and delivers an intense, raw coastal experience. Expect craggy cliffs, long beaches, and a strong sense of Irish language and culture. It’s ideal if you want a half-day drive that still feels immersive and distinctly local.

At roughly 179 km (111 miles), the Ring of Kerry is the most famous—and the busiest. It offers the widest mix of scenery, historic sites, and lively towns, but narrow roads and tour buses can shape the experience unless you plan carefully and stay overnight along the route.

The Ring of Beara, stretching about 137 km, sits quietly between the two. It’s noticeably less touristy, with rugged mountain scenery, peaceful gardens like Derreen, ancient sites such as the Uragh Stone Circle, and access to Dursey Island via Ireland’s only cable car. I spent two days here and found it the most connected and unhurried of the three.

If you only have time for one drive, choose Dingle for a shorter, wilder experience with strong local character. Choose the Ring of Kerry if you want variety and don’t mind sharing the road. Choose Beara if you’re after similar beauty with far fewer people.

How to Drive the Ring of Kerry in Ireland

The Ring of Kerry rewards flexibility more than rigid planning. Overnight stops in smaller towns, clockwise driving to avoid tour buses, and detours like the Skellig Ring matter far more than ticking off attractions. Plan your route loosely, then let weather, light, and curiosity shape the day.

If you’re driving an electric or hybrid vehicle, the drive is increasingly manageable—but it still rewards a bit of planning. Larger towns like Killarney, Kenmare, and Caherciveen have public charging points, while rural stretches may not. I’d recommend charging up whenever you overnight in town and treat scenic stops as breaks, not charging opportunities.

Where to Start and Stop

If I were planning the Ring of Kerry again, I’d skip treating it like a checklist of towns. Kenmare and Killarney are convenient bases, but they’re also the busiest. Sneem and Caherciveen stood out precisely because they felt lived-in rather than touristed, and Portmagee makes the most sense if you’re aiming for the Skellig Ring or Skellig Michael boats. Where you stop matters far less than giving yourself time to stop at all.

Where to Sleep

In high season you should absolutely book your accommodations before setting out on the drive. Although it means less flexibility in stopping whenever you find a spot you love, it’s essential to ensure you find something with your budget.

Booking.com has the best app when you’re actively traveling, and I also love VRBO for finding accommodation with a kitchen.

• If you’re starting/ending in Kenmare, consider Kenmare Failte Hostel for budget backpackers and Brooklane Hotel for midrange travelers.
• In Caherciveen, Sive Hostel is perfect for backpackers and Quinlan & Cooke Boutique Townhouse for midrange travelers.
• In Waterville, consider The Skellig Lodge and Hostel for budget backpackers and O’Dwyer’s the Villa for midrange travelers.

What to Pack

Even on a sunny day, the weather can change fast. Beyond that, pack car-snacks and maybe even picnic fixings, since you will find wild panoramas where you could pull over and have a lovely picnic lunch. View my full packing list here.

Drive Onward to the Dingle Peninsula

I drove that too! I shared a complete guide to the best sights on the Dingle Peninsula—I consider it unskippable and you should absolutely opt for it over the Ring of Kerry if you only have time for just one scenic drive.

Ring of Kerry FAQs