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A Little Food… A Vegetarian Survival Guide, Jordan-Style

As a vegetarian traveling to a new country, I face a few extra challenges and considerations. While I wouldn’t out-right skip a destination because of food, the pecking order does change if I know I can eat well once I’m there. So when I read the invitation from the Jordan Tourism Board about a sponsored trip to the country, my initial thoughts circled like vultures around every tidbit of Middle Eastern foodie information stored in my brain.

My first three questions:

  • Are there inherently vegetarian dishes in the national cuisine?
  • Can I eat the fresh fruits and veggies without risking contamination from the water used to clean the food?
  • Is vegetarianism understood and accepted?

A few quick keyword searches online and bam! I had my answer—all systems were a go on the foodie front, Jordan offers dozens of dishes consistently cooked vegetarian and the country is touristy enough to easily communicate the concept of vegetarianism (a marked contrast to traveling China as a vegetarian where culture and poverty create an environment where there is no widely understood direct translation).

Vegetarian Survival Guide to Jordan & the Middle East

Jordan sits right in the heart o f the Middle East and on the edge of the Mediterranean region, giving the country flavors and influence from nearby Syria, Lebanon, Turkey and Greece. This proximity to so much cultural diversity seeps into Jordan’s national dishes and cuisine; nearly every single one of these vegetarian dishes can be enjoyed throughout the region.

A jordanian meal laid out family style and ready for the sampling.

A jordanian meal laid out family style, lots of vegetarian mezze ready for the sampling (and fyi, I traveled with a carnivore so the meaty-looking red dish is, in fact, meat.)

My favorite dishes, and the dishes appealing to most vegans and vegetarians are mezze, or rather a spread of small appetizers. Culturally, these dishes are served at the start of the meal and served family-style. Family-style is a bit opposite from the American meal mentality, where meals are plated and served individually. Instead, small dishes are spread throughout the table for sampling and we ripped off chunks of pita and dunked right onto the plate.

Warning: Traditional cooked meals in Jordan feature a lot of meat (lamb is popular), but the selection of mezze are healthy, filling, and delicious!

So with that in mind, let’s take a photo journey through Jordan’s foodie side as a vegetarian! Quickly jump to:

For the Love of Bread
Fresh and Raw Salads
Creamy Spreads for Your Bread
A Bit Heartier and Heavier
For Your Sweet Tooth

For the Love of Bread

Breads will be served with each and every meal, though they differ in texture and thickness, and even flavor for the breads cooked near an open flame, they are delicious and were always served completely fresh. In addition to using the breads for dipping and scooping your mezze and meal, there is often a bowl of za’atar seasoning on the table–feel free to dip your pita in olive oil before scooping some za’atar seasoning as well!

Pita Bread

Golden rounds of pita bread

Golden rounds of warmed pita bread served in a large basket on the table

Pita bread is a staple part of the diet and served with every meal. It’s completely acceptable to tear the bread with your fingers and use your pita to dip into the family-style mezze served on the table. Seconds are also fine too so don’t hesitate to grab some more from the basket on the table because there is always extra bread nearby, an endless supply it often seems!

Shrak

Traditional shrak bread in Jordan

A woman making making the thin, traditional shrak bread in Jordan with the firelit saj in the background!

Shrak is a delicious whole-wheat Bedouin bread. Shrak is baked on a dome-shapped griddle (a saj) with an open fire beneath; this bread is tossed thinly and then lays over top of the griddle.

Fresh and Raw Salads

Fresh fruits and vegetables play a large role in the diet within this region; you’ll find most salads have natural dressings like olive oil and lemon. The olive oil is delicious and local, and because olive trees grown so well through the Levant and Mediterranean region, the oil is far cheaper than the olive oil I purchase back home in the US–I am supposing that is one reason so many dishes are served coated in oil! Most of these salads are tangy because of the heavy lemon, so get ready to purse your lips on each first bite!
Fatoush

Fattoush salad from Jordan and the Middle East

Fattoush, crispy fried pita and fresh vegetables in a delicious and light oil with sumac for a tangy and tart flavor.

Fresh tomatoes and cucumber are sliced into thick chunks alongside … . The toasted pita bread is the highlight of the dish and such a tasty alternative to croutons. These items are tossed together into a dish with a light and zesty dressing.

This is my favorite of the new dishes I discovered in Jordan…and the dish’s simplicity is the best part. I love traditional salads a whole lot, but the variety of non-lettuce based salads in Jordan was a welcome addition to my vegetarian diet.

Another salad, quite similar with the large veggie chunks, but spicier is Ezme Salatasi; though I did not sample this dish in Jordan, it is a Turkish tomato salad you are likely to find on some menus in the region.

Farmers Salad

A bowl of diced veggies make a yummy Farmer's Salad in Jordan

A bowl of diced veggies make a yummy Farmer’s Salad in Jordan

Like the Fatoush, this cold salad is served without lettuce. The catch though is that each part of the salad is finely chopped into small cubes before being tossed together into one bowl. Copious amounts of lemon saturate the veggies for a no-dressing-needed bowl of raw and tasty veggies…to be truthful though, the sheer amount of lemon in the dish took some adjustment time before I was able to eat the dish in large quantities.

Tabouleh

Tabbouleh salad at Wild Jordan in Amman, Jordan

Tabbouleh salad at Wild Jordan in Amman, Jordan

A no-chewing-necessary salad! Okay, I kid, you do have to chew it, but tabouleh is made from bulgar and incredibly finely chopped veggies that include: parsley, tomato, and onion. The dish is then heavily soaked with oil and lemon juice. I grew up eating tabouleh and loved tasting the flavors in the dish so much closer to its home base.

Shanklish

Shanklish salad in Jordan

Shanklish salad and with cheese chunks, tomato, and onion

Shanklish is actually the name of the cheese used within this dish, but because the cheese is most often served with tomatoes and onions, it now refers to the whole dish if you’re ordering in a restaurant.  I loved it; the soft cheese made the salad creamier than a traditional veggie and cheese salad and quite tasty!

Olives
These are not my favorite dish; most often served as simply a plate of plain olives, it just doesn’t do much for my taste buds, but if you’re an olive fan then you are in great luck! Also, they like pickled sides, another delicacy I just don’t get so I’m lumping them with the olives!

Yalanji Dolma or Warak Enab

Dolma, stuffed grape leaves were a tasty snack in Jordan

Dolma are rice-stuffed grape leaves and make a tasty snack throughout the region!

Call this whatever you choose, bu the essence of the dish is grape leaves stuffed with rice, seasonings, and occasionally meat. In fact, some dolma are inherently vegetarian and others are not, so you’ll want to ask carefully before sampling since you have to bite into one of the dolma before you know what’s inside! Delicious and a quick pick-me-up, we snacked on these during a family-led cooking experience in Ajloun, Jordan.

Creamy Spreads for Your Bread

Most of these spreads include healthy doses of olive oil, just like the salads in this region. The spreads are most often creamy, with strong flavors. Again, lemon and garlic are popular (just like in the salads) but so is the smoky flavor of fire-roasted eggplant, alongside a rich sesame paste known as tahini.

Hummus

Closeup of hummus dip as a Jordanian mezze to start the meal.

A creamy hummus dip, made from boiled chickpeas, is the most popular mezze in Jordan

Hummus has crossed over nicely into the rest of the world and you’re probably already familiar with it, and even better if you’re already a hummus fan. Plan on eating a lot of hummus while you’re in the Middle East and Jordan is no exception. Every single meal in Jordan started with a bowl of creamy hummus and pita and I enjoyed knowing I was getting a good dose of protein with every scoop!

The dish is made from boiled and ground chickpeas blended with lemon, garlic, and oil into a finely ground paste and is seasoned to taste by the chef, so it adds a nice variety that it’s not actually standard prep throughout the region!

Moutabel

Chowing down on a moutabel mezze

Digging into a plate of moutabel, a creamy roasted eggplant dip reminiscent of baba ghanoush, that was served as a family style mezze at a Druze family lunch in Jordan.

If you’re familiar with baba ghanoush then you already have a pretty good flavor profile for moutabel, which is by far more popular in Jordanian cuisine than baba ghanoush. Both dishes are made from roasted and mashed eggplant, but the extra ingredients are what make these subtly different. Moutabel is served at the beginning of the meal, as a mezze. The dish is very heavy in tahini paste and garlic and once the dip is smoothed to a creamy finish, a heavy layer of delicious regional olive oil is doused on top. Moutabel is rich and very creamy because of the tahini and the smoked flavor is just delicious in contrast to the sharp citrus salads also served as mezze.

Baba Ghanoush
This is the dish that has most often crossed over into Middle Eastern dishes all over the world, and for good reason. The smoky flavor of the eggplant is complimented with pomegranate molasses, tahini, finely chopped veggies and pine nuts. Tasty, and a fun way to change up the flavors if you bounce between moutabel and baba ghanoush as your mezze of choice.

Muhammara

Muhammara:A spicy chili dish in Jordan

Muhammara: A spicy chili dish in Jordan

Having arrived in the Middle East from months eating and traveling within Thailand, I figured I was pretty much ready to tackle any spice the Jordanians threw my way. I was wrong. This dish is spicy! But tasty in small quantities; don’t order it alone as it works best in tandem with some of the other mezze like falafel, pita, and the crunchy fried cheeses.

Labneh
A creamy and thick yogurt, Labneh much more closely resembles the tartness and full flavor of Greek yogurt (which is also strained by the way) than it’s American counterpart. I ate this every single morning, and throughout the day too! Really insanely delicious on the often-served candied sweets like these tasty (but hideous) apricots.

A Bit Heartier and Heavier

To be honest, there just are not a lot of traditional vegetarian cooked meals in Jordanian and Middle Eastern cuisine, they eat meat! Now, that is not to say that you will stave and be living from salads and spreads while you’re there–restaurant menus will offer pastas and other cross-culinary dishes when you’re in touristy areas. And in addition to the handful of adaptable dinner dishes, breakfasts and snacky type foods are delicious any time of day!

Ful Mudamas

Foul (ful) Mudammas, a local MIddle Eastern dish made from fava beans and topped with spices and seasonings and eaten widely across the region.

Foul (ful) Mudammas, a local MIddle Eastern dish made from fava beans and topped with spices and seasonings and eaten widely across the region.

Ful is my favorite of the cooked dishes, which some would say doesn’t say a lot about the sophistication of my palate since it’s actually a common dish (referred to as a peasant’s dish by some Jordanians), but the peasants do know how to make the most out of simple ingredients and spices! Ful is made from mashed fava beans as the base of the dish and is often served as a hearty breakfast. But fava beans alone hardly rate on the tasty-scale, so add in some fresh veggies and seasonings and it transforms the flavors.

The extra flavors and veggies you’ll find added to the ful depends entirely on where you’re eating it. The Four Seasons Amman was my first sampling of ful on their full breakfast buffet and I had he whole rigamaroll to choose from: tomatoes, parsley, cumin, za’atar, sumac, and then drowned in a lovely layer of super-fresh olive oil.

The dish is often served throughout the day as a snack and could make a nice, hearty lunch. :)

Falafel

Falafel balls from Jordan vegetarian cuisine

Falafel, deepfried mashed chickpeas served hot and traditionally with plenty of pita!

Like hummus, falafel has made the cross over to the global palate as a typical Middle Eastern food. And again, for good reason–it’s tasty! These little balls are made from deep-fried ground chickpeas and they are a jack of all trades in the regional diet. Eat them alone as a snack you just pop in your mouth, add a plate to your mezze at the beginning of the meal and they compliment the other dips and salads.

And if you’re hungry but on the go, find a street-side stand and have a falafel sandwich for lunch! Chickpeas are a bit of a wonder-bean because they’re so versatile. Why don’t we in the west cook with chickpeas more often is what I’m wondering?!

Manakish

Manakish served with za'atar and fresh veggies.

Manakish served with za’atar or soft cheese (often akkawi cheese) and fresh veggies

Alongside ful, manakish is a traditional breakfast or snack item that you can likely have made for you throughout the day too. The most popular form of manakish is served with the za’atar seasoning baked on top, which means a very flavorful piece of bread served fresh and warm from the oven.

Also popular is manakish with a creamy cheese spread on top. Hard to say which was my favorite–I loved the riot of flavors in the za’atar manakish but also dug the way the cheese spread adds a bit of needed moisture to the baked pita bread. You should try both, they’re an inexpensive snack or breakfast!

Mujaddara

Mujaddara is a popular and very hearty option in the Levant region–order this dish and you won’t be hungry afterwards! Made with cooked lentils, most usually rice, and topped with roasted onions mujaddara is a filling choice and a great way to get some protein into your diet while in the Middle East. You might be lucky and find it served with a side dish of vegetables too!

Makloubeh (Maalouba)

A vegetarian version of maaloubeh

A vegetarian version of maaloubeh, hand made by me at the Beit Sitti Cooking School in Amman, Jordan

Makloubeh is not an inherently vegetarian dish, but if you’re at a restaurant it shouldn’t be too hard for them to make this tasty dish without the meat since there are plenty of veggies and rice still left to make a filling meal. It’s fun to make too because it’s constructed in the pan upside down and then you flip it over onto the plate and hope it stands long enough to be presented prettily. Mine stood up nicely–yippee!:)

For Your Sweet Tooth

Knafeh

Eating Knafeh at Habiba in Amman, Jordan

Eating Knafeh with Jodi from LegalNomads.com at Habiba in Amman, Jordan

So tasty but utterly sweet. Which is bizzare because the dish is made with a thick cheese, which is not inherently sweet. The sweetness comes from the sweet and buttery shredded phyllo-like dough on top. I highly recommend hunting down knafeh because when I posted this same photo on the A Little Adrift Facebook page a debate broke out about who serves the best knafeh (consensus says: each person voted on their own mother’s recipe, go figure!). If you’re in Amman, Habiba’s small shop is well worth finding for a taste of delicious knafeh, or other popular Arabic sweets.

More Middle East Vegetarian Tips

These dishes constitute the bulk of the food I ate during my ten day trip to Jordan. It is far from an exhaustive list of the foods in the area, but should give traveling vegetarians a more clear understanding of the types of foods available. I loved traveling vegetarian in Jordan–besides some moments of explanation when eating with Bedouin, there was very little issue.

In fact, I welcomed the freedom of traveling through a region with such a wide array of fresh fruits and vegetables, and even more than that, a focus on fresh and flavorful cuisine.

Am I missing any other tasty vegetarian dishes from the Middle East and Jordan that should find a home on this list? Or, which one from the list is your hands-down favorite?

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  • Avril – Chili Lime Garlic

    Umm Yummy!

  • http://www.neverendingvoyage.com Erin

    This is why I want to go to the Middle East! Sounds fantastic for vegetarians and I love many of these dishes already so it’d be great to sample them at the source.

    • Anonymous

      You will love it when you make it there Erin! The olive oil is so tasty, the
      fruits so fresh and local, yum! :)

  • Andi Perullo

    Oh wow as a fellow veggie I’m drooling over your pics!  What gorgeous pics you took of the food.  Looks insanely delicious!!!

    • Anonymous

      All of the food was even tastier than it looks! Thanks Andi, appreciate the
      support :)

  • Andi Perullo

    Oh wow as a fellow veggie I’m drooling over your pics!  What gorgeous pics you took of the food.  Looks insanely delicious!!!

  • http://nomadicsamuel.com Nomadic Samuel

    This is a wonderful overview of the different types of Mediterranean foods one could possibly try.  When I was vegetarian for several years back in University I ate this kind of meal at least once a week.  My personal favorites are Tabouleh and Falafel.  Anyhow, a great post & I’m quite hungry now!  

    • Anonymous

      These are also some of my favorite veggie stables…I think I must eat
      hummus nearly 5 days a week—so delicious with freshly chopped vegetables!
      Good luck hunting down a snack ;-)

  • http://www.onmywayrtw.com Megan

    Mouthwatering! I am so addicted to falafel after eating it nearly every day in the Middle East…I actually found a packet mix from Lebanon in a supermarket in Sydney which is pretty authentic but I have trouble getting the water/mix ratio right…it’s either too dry or too wet! 

    • Anonymous

      I haven’t thought about trying a falafel mix! That would surely be easier
      than cooking and mashing falafel by an as yet unknown recipe (which is what
      I was thinking I was going to be forced into!). :) Yum!

  • http://www.mariastaal.com Maria Staal

    Wow, this post is making me very hungry! :) Lovely picts and great information about veggie food. Being a veggie myself, I know how hard it can be to travel to other countries, but I can see that Jordan shouldn’t be a problem for me. Far from that! Thanks, Shannon! :)

    • Anonymous

      I have a hard time looking at it myself if I haven’t eaten recently! You
      should be really good traveling through Jordan — although they are a meat
      eating culture in the national dishes, and main cooked foods, they really
      have a wide range of those delicious mezze! :)

  • Akshaye

    Hard to believe such varieties in jordan……have perception about them being non veggies….would love to have Farmer’s Salad and dolma…even knafeh looking gr8…..so as you both!!

  • Akshaye

    Hard to believe such varieties in jordan……have perception about them being non veggies….would love to have Farmer’s Salad and dolma…even knafeh looking gr8…..so as you both!!

    • Anonymous

      There’s an interesting split — the dinner dishes all have a lot of meat,
      but I think the Mediterranean influence has a lot to do with the fresh and
      raw mezze served throughout the country :) The knafeh is just as good as it
      looks btw! Yum!

  • http://twitter.com/FearfulGirl Torre DeRoche

    I’m doing some serious chop licking over here. Yum. 

    • Anonymous

      Hehe! That was totally intended! Every time I have to even think about this
      post I get hungry :)

  • http://travelingcanucks.com Cam

    YUM! I love Mezze!

  • Erik Nolke

    Lonely Planet Twitter pointed me here.  Good post, but I won’t be back because of your insanely annoying locked overlay of the facebook like, tweet and su buttons.  In PC Firefox 5+ it blocks and ruins the readability of your article unless you have the window maximized.  Some of us multi-task and don’t want to have to maximize the window to read and it’s annoying how it creeps along when reading.

  • Belle

    Great post for all us veggies and anyone into finding out about the local food before they travel. I’ve also found Oman, Turkey and Morocco to be great for veggies :)

    • Anonymous

      Ooo! That has me intrigued, I’ve had Turkey on my bucket list for a while
      now, and if the food is as tasty and veg friendly as other countries in the
      region it just got higher on the list! Thanks for stopping by and weighing
      in, appreciate you sharing other great veggie spots :)

  • Rasha

    I’m a Jordanian girl and i really advice everyone to visit Jordan it’s such a great Country and there’s way more places to see in here there’s plenty of desert castles  and there’s Mujeb Nature Reserve  it’s such a wonderful place just amazing !!  and that’s Habiba shop  is my fav  place in here ;) and i wanna ask you  Shannon did u visit The Roman Theater by any chance ? it’s a great place to go to.

    • Anonymous

      I couldn’t agree with you more Rasha! Really wonderful place and the food is
      so tasty :) I didn’t have the opportunity to actually walk around the Roman
      Theatre, but we visited a look out point above it and our guide explained
      the history and a bit more about Amman :) Thanks for sharing your
      experiences and endorsement for Habiba! I would go back there in a heart
      beat for some knafeh if I could!!

  • Melvin

    Wow! What a post! I’ll head to Jordan in November probably and I love meat… But I wouldn’t mind to have one of the dishes on your post. One? Serve them all! :)

    • Anonymous

      Thanks Melvin! You will eat so very well while you are there, no doubt about
      it. You should shoot Jodi LegalNomads an email though since she was a meat
      eater and really loved some of the national lamb dishes she sampled, she
      will definitely have the meatier recommendations for you! :-)

  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Randy-Kalp/753634832 Randy Kalp

    Wow, great post! I’ve already been itching to go to Jordan, and now I can’t wait (not sure when I’m going to make it though :). Each story I read about the country draws me in more and more.

    • Anonymous

      Thanks Randy! I was really amazed by Jordan, it’s such a small country, but
      the bang for the buck there was great—delicious foods, Petra, and the Dead
      Sea were all really “wow” for me :) I’ll cross my fingers that something
      comes up soon so you can go for a visit!

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  • Sofia – As We Travel

    That looks SO yummy, my favorite is hummous, but they all lookdelicious.

    • Anonymous

      Agreed! They are all so tasty, but hummus is pretty much the one I eat most
      every day when I’m back home too! :)

  • http://twitter.com/AuntieObama Tom

    A mouthwatering array.   I love Middle Eastern dishes…with the exception, perhaps, of falafel.

    • Anonymous

      No falafel! Well, all taste buds are different I guess :) There’s enough
      other foods though that you’d be safe, particularly if you ate meat, lots of
      meat in the Middle East too!

  • http://www.colorfulplaces.com Bluegreen Kirk

    I swear all you did was make me hungry!  This is similar to the place setting of food from my wife’s family who are from Ethiophia.  Except you will never see any silverware.  I enjoy eat Falafel but haven’t had any in a while.  I would like to give the Knafeh a try!

    • Anonymous

      Guilty as charged! I get hungry every time I think about the post too, if
      that is any consolation! I love meals you eat with your hands–and Ethiopian
      food is delicious :) I’ll go hunt down some Ethiopian restaurants for me,
      you go find a Middle Eastern one…deal? ;-)

      • http://www.colorfulplaces.com Bluegreen Kirk

         Will do, you have a deal!  I wasn’t a fan of eating with my hands at first but its like trying chopsticks for the first time.  Just get better at it the more you do it.

  • http://www.yTravelBlog.com/ yTravelBlog

    Very resourceful post! I am so hungry and how amazing is vegetarian food. Real flavour!

    • Anonymous

      The flavors can really shine when you take out the meats! I love how the
      delicious olive oil really brings out the freshness in Mediterranean foods!
      :)

  • Mack Reynolds

    I’m an omnivore, but I don’t mind an occasional all-vegetarian meal. All of these looked really good. I love grape leave-wrapped rice. mmmm

    • Anonymous

      Those grape leaves are one of my favorites too! My friend I traveled with was an avid meat eater but she’s always keen on some of the tastier veggie dishes, they really can be tasty if you add the right ingredients :)

      • Mack Reynolds

        what are some of your favorite grape leave ingredients?

        • Anonymous

          In the region they wrap all kinds of seasonings together in the grape leaves, rice is good, I have to be careful because some of them are meat though! :) Very tasty!

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