Last updated on May 29, 2026 by Shannon
Maybe it was the wine. Or perhaps it was the latticed balconies. The unfettered hospitality played a part. And the idyllic scenery was persuasive. For the life of me, I can’t pin down precisely what made Tbilisi, Georgia so charming.
Since leaving Georgia, I’ve taken on the mantle of fangirl for the Republic of Georgia. I gush about it to any willing ear. Back home, between holiday dinners and nights playing cards with friends, I found myself editing photos from my fall travels. Each cropped and straightened image rekindled my crush on this beautiful little city in the far east of Europe.
Like any good crushee, I immediately wanted to know my crush’s backstory.
Before leaving for Georgia and Turkey, I showed my dad my route. His eyebrows shot toward the sky and he released a single skeptical “hmm.” Now many years into my travels, my parents have long accepted my habit of wandering off alone, but I could tell he was unconvinced. In the absence of context, it’s hard to imagine what Georgia is actually like—or what could possibly entertain a traveler there.
Situated on the edge of the Caucasus Mountains, Georgia has long occupied a fascinating crossroads. Once a stop on the Silk Road, Georgia became a confluence of civilizations over the centuries. Its peculiar position means Georgia is considered part of Europe or Asia, depending on who you ask. You’d even be forgiven for wondering if it’s part of the Middle East.
But the actual vibe? It’s European.
That surprised me.
My wanders through Tbilisi uncovered Orthodox churches, mosques, synagogues, and even a Zoroastrian temple. The city wears its layered history openly, and understanding even a little of that history enriched every part of my visit.
My memories float to the surface, begging to be shared. Like the delicate smile of a new courtship, the city flirts with visitors. Tbilisi won me over with subtle charms and gentle nudges. These are the aspects of the city that stand out most prominently in my memories.
The Gorgeous Patchwork Architecture
The patchwork architecture of Old Tbilisi is reason enough to visit this pretty capital city. Intricate balconies sigh from tired buildings. Cobbled streets ramble through historic neighborhoods. Sweet, shady trees along Rustaveli Avenue belong as much in Paris as in this tiny Eastern European city. Each day I leapt from bed, energized by the idea of wandering adrift on the streets of Tbilisi, camera in hand.
Quiet courtyards and ephemeral smiles form the bedrock of my memories. Centuries of Persian, German, and Russian influence remain visible in the city’s architecture.
But it’s not just the historic layers that fascinate. Tbilisi’s recent stability has it hurtling toward modernity. Controversial space-age architecture sits beside centuries-old buildings. A gamut of architectural possibilities gathers in the shadow of the 4th-century Narikala Fortress.
Time passes—that’s what the fortress seems to say. Tbilisi’s complicated history continues into the present, and the cityscape bears witness.
And yet, the gorgeous lace-like balconies also point to a more complicated reality. Like Havana, decades of underinvestment left many historic buildings in disrepair. There’s a tension between recognizing the need for restoration while still loving the beauty created by age and imperfection.
Perhaps there’s a middle ground. Something between shimmering glass bridges and the city’s enchanting old-world charm. Either way, Tbilisi’s eclectic mix of styles is part of what makes it so memorable.
The Delicious Food & Wine
Real talk: the food culture in Georgia is wonderful.
There’s a reason I started with a bit of Georgian history. Cultures brushing against each other over centuries created a fascinating food scene. In addition to meat in large supply, the country offers fresh salads, hearty bean soups, salty cheeses, fragrant herbs, and irresistible khachapuri. Let’s just say that as a vegetarian, I didn’t starve.
Then there’s the wine. It’s divine.
Georgia’s traditional qvevri winemaking process—using giant clay vessels buried underground—is recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage tradition. During my stay in Tbilisi, I slipped easily into the city’s café culture. Sidewalk cafés, wine bars, and tasting rooms seemed to appear around every corner.
Wine is the icebreaker with new Georgian friends. Every local I met had a favorite variety. Even more often, they proudly offered stories about homemade wines produced by family and friends.
The country has hundreds of indigenous grape varieties, and Georgians maintained their winemaking traditions through changing governments, economic hardships, and centuries of upheaval.
Georgians love nothing more than to spend a night—or many—sharing wine with friends. Evening shadows grow long as glasses are raised to health, happiness, family, friendship, and life itself.
The Deeply Entrenched Culture of Hospitality
Kartlis Deda watches over Tbilisi from Sololaki Hill. Better known as Mother Georgia, her looming figure perfectly captures the spirit I encountered throughout the country.
For Georgians, the statue represents the dual priorities of hospitality and freedom. In one hand she carries a bowl of wine for friends. In the other, a sword for enemies.
In practice, hospitality infuses every aspect of traveling in Georgia. More than the architecture, food, or scenery, it was the feeling of complete welcome that stayed with me long after I left.
After I posted a photo of Tbilisi on Instagram, a local woman named Teo found it and welcomed me to her city. We clicked immediately. She’s a Georgian woman with a serious case of wanderlust—something I understood right away.
When I admitted that I hadn’t yet sampled much Georgian wine (I prefer drinking with friends), she quickly arranged to fix that oversight. Across many hours—and many glasses of wine—we swapped travel stories. She shared what it’s like to live, work, and travel as a Georgian woman, and in return I shared stories from my own years on the road.
Though I often meet kind people while traveling, there was a palpable joy to Georgian hospitality. It never felt performative. It simply felt woven into everyday life.
If Mother Georgia’s bowl of wine is an invitation to friendship, then Georgians take that invitation seriously. Visit as a friend and you’ll likely leave carrying memories of generosity, conversation, and more than a few shared glasses of wine.
The Beautiful & Endlessly Explorable Landscape
Tbilisi is a pocket-sized city. Even if you base yourself there—as I did, thanks to being spectacularly underdressed for a late-fall trip—make time to get outside the city.
Georgia may be small, but it’s endlessly explorable. Situated between the Greater and Lesser Caucasus Mountains, the country packs an astonishing variety of landscapes into a relatively compact space. I spent my trip using Tbilisi as a base, taking day trips into the surrounding countryside.
History and nature collide outside the city. I hired my Airbnb host, Bacho, to show me around, and one day we headed for the David Gareja monastery and its painted cave complex. A few hours outside the capital, our car hummed along lonely, winding roads through a muted, almost lunar landscape.
The monastery itself is beautiful. But one of my favorite moments came as we crested the ridge behind it.
Bristling in the cold air, I stopped short as Azerbaijan suddenly stretched before us—a vast plain washed in muted greens and browns all the way to the horizon.
As I stood taking in this new land, two eagles emerged from the mountainside and soared into the sky, their massive wingspans casting shadows on the landscape below. They glided effortlessly on the breeze, unconcerned with the border that held me to my perch. It was one of those fleeting travel moments that stays with you for years.
Over the following hour, we wandered among caves carved into the rocky hillside. On other days, I visited 4th-century churches—many still in use—quietly watching over the valleys below. Together they reminded me that one of Georgia’s greatest strengths is how seamlessly history and landscape intertwine.
The Centuries of Music & Dance
Never before have I experienced a culture so taken with song.
Rich harmonies drifted from family compounds. Sometimes I caught only a few notes of a deep melody floating on the breeze before it disappeared again. And people weren’t singing for tourists or spare coins—they sang simply because they loved the music.
Polyphonic singing is one of Georgia’s UNESCO-recognized cultural traditions, and hearing it in person is unforgettable.
I visited Georgia during Tbilisoba, the country’s annual cultural festival, and quickly became captivated by its rich history of music and dance. The festival gave me the chance to watch, mesmerized, a showcase of regional performances from across the country.
The men leapt impossibly high. The women twirled and swayed. Each dance told stories of courtship, history, celebration, and joy.
I was lucky enough to watch one long performance beside a Georgian woman who spoke English. As we watched, she passed me pieces of churchkhela—a local sweet—and translated the introductions before each dance. Her kindness gave me my only real opportunity to ask questions during Tbilisoba.
With her explanations, I began to understand how deeply music and dance remain woven into Georgian identity. What could have been a beautiful performance became something richer—a glimpse into the stories, traditions, and regional pride that continue to shape the country today.
There’s no neat way to summarize why I became so taken with the Republic of Georgia.
The sum total of it won me over.
The balconies. The wine. The songs drifting across courtyards. The hospitality. The monasteries perched on hillsides. The long conversations with strangers who quickly became friends. Together, they created a place that lingered in my thoughts long after I left.
And my gushing aside, Georgia isn’t perfect. Every place has its downsides. I’d be remiss not to mention one of mine: smoking.
As a non-smoker, the clouds drifting across restaurant patios and outdoor cafés could be frustrating. More than once, I chose my seat based on where I thought I might best escape the smoke. It’s hardly unique to Georgia, but it was one of the few aspects of daily life that consistently wore on me.
Still, when I think back on my weeks in Tbilisi, that’s not what I remember first.
I remember editing photographs months later and feeling the city pull me back in. I remember friends and readers enthusiastically telling me to go long before I arrived. None of them could ever quite explain what they loved about Georgia. They simply insisted that I would understand once I got there.
They were right.
Sometimes a city just sticks with you. It wins you over with a spirit and subtlety unlike anywhere you’ve been before. Two weeks wasn’t nearly enough time to understand Tbilisi, its people, or its culture. But it was enough time to know that I’d happily return to keep trying.
Planning a trip to the Republic of Georgia?
Start with my complete Georgia Travel Guide, which pulls together everything I learned during my travels—from practical planning tips and transportation advice to cultural insights, food recommendations, favorite experiences, and suggested itineraries. I’ve also incorporated advice from A Little Adrift readers who know and love Georgia just as much as I do.
Such stunning images! Can’t wait to visit the place.. 😍👌 Thanks..
I don’t know about you but I was there 2 months ago. Everyone on the street has a grim face, no one smiles and the place is full of scammers who want to cheat foreigners
I’m sorry to hear that was your experience as I found the people so warm. I hope that you at least found some tasty food and wine to enjoy!
What an amazing pics you have shared of Tbilisi, Georgia. After reading this, I am just going to make a trip to Tbilisi, Georgia. Thank you for sharing and Best of Luck!
So glad it resonated Akshay! It’s truly one of my favorite places and I know you’ll love it too.
Interesting fact: Total land area of Georgia is 69,700 km2 (approx. 26,911 mi²). 28577 km2 of Georgia’s territory is covered in forests. and forest land comprises 41% of all the land in the country.
A chic country with amazing nature and very hospitable people. Food, wine, music … Thanks for your story. Very beautiful photos.
Dear team,
https://alittleadrift.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/map_of_georgia_caucasus-654×565.png
In the linked photo you described Nagorno Karabakh as an independed republic.
I would like to notify you that, Karabakh is an inseparable part of Azerbaijan. In this link you will see resolutions of United Nations about it.
Please be so kind and check the links I attached and change the map according to the international law
Thanks in advance.
This is not my map, but rather one I found online, and since this is a post about Georgia—and it clearly shows the two contested areas of Georgia—I will keep it. I would love a better photo, but have not found one. I’ll leave your comment though so others can learn more about it. Thank you for sharing.
Have been planning to visit Georgia for about two years now. Thanks for sharing the great article and pictures. You’ve convinced me to go soon!!
So glad to hear that! Have an amazing trip :)
Hi ,
Shannon ,
I will do Georgia trip this May,
Do you still have email contact for your guide ,or which one for your recommendation.
Hi! Good question. Bacho was my Airbnb host, so I don’t think he does general guiding, but rather acts as a guide for his Airbnb people. I loved the apartment I rented from him, they are gorgeous and well located spots if you are in the market his profile is here.)
Hi Shannon, Reading your blog whilst sat in my apartment in Tbilisi on an 8 day visit from the UK. I totally get why you fell for this place. A hidden treasure, glad I made it here before it gets too touristy. Thanks for your blog, its great.
Hi Anthony! I am so glad to hear that you are there and enjoying the beauty of Tbilisi. Since I visited a couple years ago, I only hear more people talking about it, so I definitely think you’re right to go now. It’s not even remotely an “on-the-path” destination, but it surely will be soon. Now you have me jonesing for Georgian food! Have an incredible time exploring and thanks for finding your way to the site. :)
I went to Georgia just very recently. You are right with all that you have said in this blog. Georgia is indeed charming :)
So glad to hear that you had a similarly charming experience there! I do just love the country. :)
Thank you for this. My husband and I leave for Georgia in less than a month and it will be my first time traveling abroad. Everyone keeps asking how we decided on Georgia. I read a bit about the food first and the more I read about the country, the quicker it rose to the top of my travel list.
I am so glad to hear you have a trip planned! It’s unlike any other place — the wine, food, and hospitality are sure to make it a memorable experience. I will admit though, it’s a unique choice for your first trip. But the Georgian people will undoubtedly make for amazing hosts on your first time abroad. Please let me know if there is any advice I can help with as you plan. :)
I appreciate that. We have been reading up on the culture so as to minimize the inevitable tourist faux pas. I’m doing well picking up basic words and phrases in Georgian, but their language is tricky.
Are there any customs you think we should know about before we go.
It is a tricky language! But they will love that you have picked some up. As for customs, they have hospitality embedded in their cultural identity, so if you go curious and respectful, there’s nothing you could do truly wrong. I hope it’s a wonderful experience for you!
Georgia is not a destination that was ever top of my wish list but you do make it look intriguing!
Thanks Linzi! It was so unexpectedly lovely if you do make it over to that part of the world. :)
Beautiful photography and very well curated!! Thanks so much, Samantha
Georgia has some vibrant culture, as far as I can see. They do have a strange alphabet though. Have you managed to “decipher” some of it while you were there ? :)
What a travel..it was so lovely and deep i was in Georgia for a min, I love the way you wrote more the way you experienced …good job.
Wow! This is by far the most beautiful blog post on Georgia I have ever read!
Aww, thank you Clara, you made my day. I tried so hard with this piece to make it share just what made Georgia so special. :)
Wonderful pictures. This historic and cultural blend makes Tbilisi unique. We will be there soon, HOPEFULLY. :)
I hope you make it! It’s one of the more special spots that I’ve visited in the past couple of years.
I was in Tbilisi in the mid-80’s when it was still Soviet. I remember dull, gray, dreary…except for the dancing. Ah, the native folk dancing. I was mesmerized from the first second. I was SO in love with it that I stayed for a second professional performance just to see it all again…and was the only member of the audience. All the other tourists had left, yet they gave me again their hearts and souls on the dance floor. I sat in the front row of course, and marveled at the costumes, the strength and will of the men, the beauty of the women…..seeing your photos gave me chills. I have obviously never forgotten that wonderful experience. I still to this day look for them to come to the states to dance.
As for food..when we got on our student bus in Moscow the first think our Soviet Intourist guide asked was “Do we have any vegetarians?” I whooped and yelled “yes!”, and she smiled. I had been fearful of starving. I was fed first at every meal, big plates of veggies, much more than the others got, while they had to stare at mystery meat for three weeks. By the end, all were wishing they had been vegetarian.
What a fascinating time to have been in the country. The vibe is certainly different now, but the culture, music, dance, and magic are still there. And as a vegetarian, we rarely are thrown a bone, but it sounds like you definitely had the advantage at the food tables! Thank you so much for sharing your own memories. That part of Georgia is still present in the country — the monastery I visited had visible signs of damage to the frescoes, done during the Soviet Era. Do you have any plans to go back?
No, no plans. That area, and Egypt, are places I would never want to repeat. I don’t want to ruin the magic I felt. Everything changes, and I want to remember them as I saw them. Magic rarely strikes twice. :)
Yesss, that is very true. There are a couple of places I feel the same way about. There’s other magic out there and it sometimes better to leave the great memories there and explore someplace new. :)
Georgia only i know from lesson at the school before but here all open to deepest heart of the country. I will learn more about the country and some day should be travel to Georgia. Dream country since now after reading your lovely article. Should be the country to visit.
Thank you Ema, it’s beautiful and welcoming and I hope you make it there!
Hi Shannon,
Beautiful images! The culture of hospitality jumps out at me. Bali is one of my fave places on earth for 1 core reason; if you live in a Balinese village, you’re treated like someone from Bali. We were invited to a wedding and many of the endless ceremonies around the island because these folks are so darn warm, authentic and inviting. Their hearts are HUGE. Just like the beautiful Georgians.
Ryan
My travels through Bali were so short, but even in the time I was there I could see the culture of hospitality. I am so glad you found welcome there. It is definitely that same level of friendship and welcome in Georgia! :)
Thanks for this post, its impressive, not only because its about the country which i love the most.. but your writing style… hope you will come back one day and explore also our mountains as Svaneti and Tusheti or Racha . it will be interesting to read a story about those trips : )) Good luck to you !
Hi Smari! I am so glad that you enjoyed the piece and I do hope to head back to Georgia this year to see your beautiful mountain regions. Many thanks for reading! :)
I’m georgian and as georgian I’m so proud of my country! and I’m so glad I read it! thank you peope for your esteem to my country’s culture.I’m very happy I found this post! thank you a lot.
Thank you for reading Keti! I am so glad you enjoyed it and feel like it was a fair representation. I experienced such wonderful welcome and hospitality in your country and I can’t wait to go back. :)
feeling really happy while reading this. <3 Georgia's waiting for you to join our love and happiness!
While I agree with your observations, I feel that Tbilisi is becoming stereotyped by the Old Town. When I return in May, I want to see about the outer suburbs that I was briefly exposed to…..the, what I was told, ‘strong sense of community’ even in the tall ex-soviet accommodation towers that sprout from the surrounding hillsides. Keen to meet locals
I do see what you mean, there is a lot of focus on what is just one part of the city. I did make it out into a few other areas of the city, but unfortunately I found the lack of English hard to connect and find the same level of welcome that you have in the places more set up for tourism. i hear that throughout the country there is that same strong welcome, and like you I hope to return and explore.
I have not been to Vadzia, but I have heard of how beautiful it is. Have you been there?
No, I didn’t make it there on this trip but I do hope to visit too!
You forgot to mention the amazing beautiful Svanetia and Tusheti! Unbeliavable nature!
If you can even believe it, I didn’t make it there this time. I am definitely returning, however, so both of those places are on my list for the next visit — I hear they are breathtakingly pretty.
Hello Shannon, glad you liked our city and country :)
I you’ll decide to come to Tbilisi next time, do not hesitate to let me know and I’d be happy to show you some places for non-smokers and where you can taste the best wines indeed))
Best wishes
Thank you Joe! I hope to return within a year or so and I will definitely shoot you an email; thank you for the offer and for the welcome! :)
Not to mention an extremely hospitable visa policy. Citizens of over 60 countries can enter visa free for a whole year.
Oh wow, I didn’t know you got a year on arrival. Generous indeed! Thanks for letting me know!
Georgia is oh so high on my bucket list, thanks for sharing your experiences and further increasing my wanderlust ;)
It deserves to be high on the list, I hope you make it there soon! And glad the piece resonated, you won’t regret putting it into the travel plans :)
There are so many things I want to say right now, but all I can come up with is this: wow. xx
Exactly how I felt when I was there! :)
Maybe it was the wine? :) Or the food? We have visited Georgia a few months ago and were smitten! Great to read little bit more about your time there.
Glad to hear it wasn’t just me! Smitten is a great word, totally how I feel too. :)
A close friend recently came back from Tbilisi and I feel in love with it through her photos. Your post is just further proof that it is definitely a country to put on my travel wishlist. Thanks for the insightful post!
Thank you Julia, glad the piece resonated. I loved my time there and I definitely think it deserves a spot on your travel wishlist. It has so many different aspects that it makes for a neat place to visit. :)
Thank you Shannon for bringing Georgia to my front door. That was a lovely introduction and you can be assured that I will be keeping my eyes open for more travel information about this small country. I am always intrigued when a country/place previously unknown to me suddenly marches forth and says “here I am”.
So glad you enjoyed the piece Joanne. Georgia is one of those places I expect you will see marching forth more in the comning years. Because they are out of internal conflict only in the past decade, there is a lot more tourism and shifts happening quickly putting it on the travel map. :)