Nepal Travel Guide
Nepal is sometimes bypassed by travelers because they figure it’s an extension of India; it’s actually very, very different in terms of food, culture, and experiences. The Nepalese are incredibly friendly and fun – learn a bit of Nepali and they will love you for it!
Nepal Travel Tips by City
General Nepal Travel Tips
Nepal is a mecca for outdoorsy type travelers because of the Himalayan mountains that offer up some of the best trekking opportunities in Asia. The country is generally safe (check out the political situation with the Maoists, it can change rapidly) and Nepal attracts a lot of hikers and volunteers in equal measure. The power situation makes working remotely from Nepal tricky (can be as few as eight hours of power every day).
Vegetarian Friendly? Definitely yes! Vegetarians will love traveling through Nepal because the national dish, Dal Bhat, is lentil soup and traditionally served with rice and some veggies. Warning though, don’t be fooled into thinking that the food is similar to India – there is much less variety and the Nepalese do eat meat (unlike most of India) . The Tibetan momos (dumplings) are fantastic and a staple of any vegetarian diet in Nepal.
Internet Accessibility: *** out of *****. Kathmandu and Pokhara have extensive access to internet shops filled with computers. There are also restaurants and cafes in both of these primary cities that offer free WIFI. The internet is decent in the cities and fair outside of Pokhara and Kathmandu. You can definitely upload information and photos. The lack of consistent power though means you have to plan out your internet time if you’re running a business.
Transportation: Transportation between cities is easy to organize and takes the form of buses. If you’re feint of heart then don’t watch as the buses careen around curves and the rusting carcasses of other buses dot the bottom of the hillsides…seriously. But it’s effective and virtually the only budget option unless you hire a taxi. Bicycle and traditional taxis are great for navigating around Kathmandu.
Volunteering in Nepal: I personally taught English to young Nepali monks at a monastery about an hour outside of Nepal. There are countless opportunities in the realms of medical volunteering and teaching English. There are also a ton of organizations facilitating volunteering opportunities (not all are great or worth the money) so be thorough when you research them. If your schedule is flexible then just head to Kathmandu and ask around – you will have a ton of choices. If you want to teach English to monks, contact me alittleadrift <at> gmail <dot> com and I’ll give you the details to book directly with the monastery where I worked.
Need more general tips? Check out our Round the World FAQ Resource!
Travel Books You Should Read Before You Go!
Check out my recommended books, music, and movies to inspire and learn about Nepal – why not grab one and read it on the plane?!
Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster by Jon Krakauer: Haunting account of the author’s ascent of Mt. Everest in March 1996 on the day a massive storm hit and took the lives of several of his traveling companions. Not indicative of all treks in the Himalayas by any means but compelling storytelling centered on Nepal nonetheless.
The Snow Leopard by Peter Matthiessen: The author hikes deep into Tibetan regions of the Himalayas in search of a rarely spotted type of snow leopard. Beautifully written narrative account of nature and the journey – pick up a copy before you leave because it’s hard to find on the road!
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The Violet Shyness of Their Eyes: Notes from Nepal by Barbara J. Scot: Much more than the travel narrative it’s billed as, the author, a Westerner teaching in remote Nepal shares insights on how Western culture is affecting Nepal – and her opinions are far from mainstream, but you’ll find yourself agreeing most of the time.
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From Goddess to Mortal by Rashmila Shakya: The Royal Kumari is an absolutely fascinating part of modern Nepal religious beliefs. In this autobiography, the author details her early years as a living Goddess living at a temple in Kathmandu; after six years, however, she went from Goddess back to mortal. Intriguingly innocent as the author first experiences the attention of being Nepals one living Goddess, contrasted sharply with her life post-Kumari status. Uniue cultural insights abound!
Lonely Planet Nepal, LP Nepal Trekking (Kindle Trekking): I really like using Lonely Planets mostly because I am super familiar with the layouts, they have a good transportation section, and what they lack in history and insight I can easily find online! :)
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If you can’t read any of these travel book recommendations then read up on the history of Nepal online before you travel there.
My Favorite Travel Experiences in Nepal
Kathmandu’s Many Temples and Stupas
Solitary Confinement in a Vipassana Meditation Course
Trekking the Annapurnas: Poon Hill Trek
Wild Animals in Chitwan National Park
Volunteering Teaching English at a Monastery
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Travel in Kathmandu, Nepal
Kathmandu is big –in fact much bigger than you might assume, but still very navigable and has some of the neatest Hindu and Buddhist temples I’ve ever seen. There is a lot to do in the city – far more than you’d expect and the backpacker and tourist section of Kathmandu, Thamel, is a beehive of activity and amenities built for the Westerners. Though Pokhara is the main spot for Annapurna circuit treks, Kathmandu is the starting point for Everest Base Camp as well as a lot of the volunteer opportunities in the country.
Activities in Kathmandu, Nepal
Temples and holy sites are rampant in Kathmandu and date back to some of the oldest Buddhist and Hindu temples in the world. No matter how “templed-out” you might be when you land in Kathmandu, you simply have to visit each of these four major sites – all different and all intriguing.
- Hanuman Dhoka, aka Durbar Square: A UNESCO site, this series of temples and buildings was once used by royalty, the really fascinating part of the square are the elaborately carved doors to where the Kumari Ghar lives. The Kumari Ghar is a living goddess and it’s worth some research to see if you’ll be in Kathmandu during one of her handful of appearances. Bring lunch and sit on the steps like locals and watch the pigeons, people, and sadhus wander.
**My experience exploring Durbar Square, Monkey Temple, and Boudhnath - Swayambhunath, aka Monkey Temple: There are literally hundreds of monkeys here. The are tons of statues to the various gods, including monkey god Hanuman. Worth a visit on the day you do the other popular stupas and temples.
- Boudhnath: A UNESCO site and most likely the largest Stupa in the world. Consider this the mac-daddy of all Buddhist sites. It’s huge and bustling with activity all day long.
- Pashupatinath Temple: This is a sacred site for the Hindu and as a Westerner you can look at the temple from the other side of the river. Also a UNESCO site, you can watch from above as they regularly perform ritual cremations in the ghats.
Volunteering in Nepal
Go to Nepal and find something there. That is my best recommendation if you have some time on your hands because it will save you money and often cut out the confusing middle-man.
- Teach English to Monks in Nepal: I taught English for a month at a monastery and had an amazing time – you can organize through the monastery, just email for contact details or visit their website: :)
**My experience teaching English at a monastery in Nepal
Hotels and Guesthouses:
No budget recommendations, they were all pretty lousy cleanliness wise, but cheap. If you cab into Thamel from the airport (walk from bus station) then you can look around – there are tons of options for every budget.
Restaurants:
- Helena’s Rooftop Restaurant: Really great views over Thamel and the city. The breakfast is pretty tasty (they make the claim it’s the best in Kathmandu which might be a bit much) and the set priced meals and breakfasts make it easy to know what you’re going to pay.
- OR2K: They have wifi and a Middle Eastern/Western menu – pricier than local foods but breezy restaurant area with trendy/hippy vibe. I went for the wifi really, since that can be tricky to find at the guesthouses.
- ZAIKA Nepali Cuisine: The momos are delicious, food is reasonably priced, and the restaurant is never too touristy even though it’s in Thamel (which is a real feat to maintain the relaxing environment!). It can be tricky to find, so follow the directions on the site and enjoy!
Also check out all of my memorable Nepal travel experiences!
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Travel in Pokhara, Nepal
Pokhara is a 180 from the experience in Thamel, Kathmandu (the backpacker district in the Kathmandu); the streets are very wide and there are less shops stacked on top of each other. This is the starting point for a huge number of the treks in Nepal, and all of the Annapurna treks. You take the all-day bus from Kathmandu (or you can fly?!) and since the city is built up around the trekking business you can find everything you need for a trek right here.
There’s a large Tibetan community in Pokhara operating the tourist shops – dig around and you can find some really neat and unique souvenirs to ship home!
Activities in Pokhara, Nepal
- Trek the Annapurna Circuit: Most people come to Pokhara to begin their treks around the Annapurna Circuit. Treks can vary in length from several days (Poon Hill) to several weeks (Annapurna Base Camp) – and everything in between. I recommend organizing through the Noble Inn guesthouse – they’re simply wonderful. But there are dozens of reputable companies, just ask questions and outline who’s paying for food, porter costs, accommodation, etc.
**My Trek of the Annapurnas: Poon Hill - Kayak, rafting, boating: Pokhara is surrounded by lakes and rivers with grade 4 and 5 rapids. For adventure, try the rapids. Try boating for a more relaxing day though, you can rent it for a couple hours, fish, and swim in the lake.
- Take a Vipassana Meditation Course: Perhaps single hardest thing I’ve accomplished is completing this 10 day silent mediation course. There is a Vipassana center near Pokhara in a gorgeous spot overlooking Begnas Lake.
**Solitary Confinement in a Vipassana Meditation Course - Paragliding: On a clear day this would be simply stunning. I was too chicken to try, but the views from ground are stunning, so consider this a more birds-eye view of the Himalayas.
Guesthouse:
Hotel Noble Inn: Lekeside 6, Pokhara, Nepal. Family run and very clean, they were affordable and so very, very friendly. We booked our trek through them, they arranged it all and everything went flawlessly. It’s so much more than staying in a hotel, stay for a while and you’re welcomed to share stories and laughter too. It’s also centrally located and close to internet and great eats.
Restaurants
- Punjabi Restaurant: Seriously tasty Indian food. There are surprisingly few Indian eats in Nepal, so this one was a welcomed find – I ate there daily.
- German Bakery: Really popular and for a reason, though it’s hardly a hidden spot, the Western-style baked goods can act as some comfort food if you need it.
Also, check out all of my memorable Nepal travel experiences!
