Last updated on January 25, 2024 by Shannon
Pandemonium broke out among the six of us teetering on a jagged ledge of dried volcanic lava on Pacaya Volcano near Antigua, Guatemala. Although the surface of the lava was hard and solid under our feet, heat radiated from every crevice of the charred gray rock. I felt like a pot roast in a slow cooker.
Our guide had ungracefully deposited the six of us on our tiny perch, a lookout spot over Pacaya’s flowing lava that you can only reach when someone helps you jump onto the ledge. He was now far away, helping the other members of our group see what we had all journeyed up the side of the volcano for: real, red-hot lava flowing within throwing distance.
So I stood on that ledge for far longer than I would have preferred, urgently snapping photos of the nearby lava flow while throwing beseeching looks toward my guide. Eventually, we had no choice but to cling to each other on the ledge while hoping for a breeze to lessen the intense heat steadily building under our feet.
What is it Like Climbing Pacaya Volcano?
Now we’re going to Tarantino this story to find out just precisely why I was stranded on a ledge of sizzling lava rock, the air thick with tension and an unspoken question of what comes next.
Anyone landing for more than a day in Antigua, Guatemala, a town dripping with colonial charm, is inevitably drawn to its surrounding volcanic landscape. Until the late 2010s, the general consensus was that a trip to Pacaya Volcano was almost a rite of passage.
Bucking no trends and lured by the prospect of witnessing an active volcano up close, I laced up my trusty hiking boots and long, high-tech pants—the minimum attire you should wear on the Pacaya hike.
Ascending Pacaya, I found myself navigating a trail at odds with the scenery’s rugged grandeur. The olfactory offense? Piles of horse manure, side attractions courtesy of the many guided horse tours. Undeterred though, the path gradually revealed more appealing moments.
Around three-quarters into the climb, a lava stream begins to parallel the trail, a juxtaposition of vibrant, emerald-green grass against a stark river of dark, formidable lava rock. When the grass ends, however, a word to the wise: Here is where you tread cautiously.
Gone were the lush fronds and the scent of earth; now it was pure, elemental geology underfoot. Every member of our group glanced, if not stared, at the “Danger” sign we blazed past. My guide led the charge with an enthusiasm that suggested he was guiding us to a tropical paradise, not a volatile geothermal activity.
And for that, I clutched my rented 10-Quetzal walking stick like a lifeline, every step punctuated by a palpable heat rising from the earth, punctuated by Pacaya’s intermittent roars and skyward bursts of molten rock.
Let me be frank: You should not be doing activities like this without travel insurance. This is a dangerous hike—people have died—and the best case emergency medical evacuation would be to Guatemala City, but if it were serious enough, you would need to go further afield. Opt for the adventure sports riders from IMG Global, a company I have used for more than a decade and highly recommend.
A quick reality check: We weren’t summiting Pacaya—that would be a dangerous and forbidden feat. But as we approached the farthest point visitors are allowed, our guide enticed us to go just a tad further, luring us with the promise of seeing actual red, molten lava. The heat intensified, noticeably even for me, seasoned by Florida’s sultry summers. My senses were both alarmed and captivated.
The red lava. That’s what we came for, right?
We reached a ledge that offered a relatively close view of the red lava—still at a distance, yet unmistakably present. Content as I was with this, the thrill-seeker’s spirit possessed some of our group.
Our guide darted away to chaperone these audacious souls. Then the air changed. The breeze faltered, and the surrounding heat grew oppressive. A moment of realization hit one of the girls in our group; she had disregarded the sound advice to wear long pants, and now her ankles bore the punishing hues of a sunburn caused by the emanating heat from below.
In that instant, an uneasy chaos unfurled among us. Here we were, six people standing on a precarious ledge of cooled lava, balancing the innate human quest for adventure with the immediate, elemental forces that reminded us of our fragility.
It was a moment that encapsulated the paradox of travel—of our relentless pursuit to explore the edges of our world and the boundaries within ourselves. And as we stood there, waiting for the next move, each of us couldn’t help but wonder: Had we finally gone too far?
Once the grass ends though, it’s time to climb over the lava rock for a closer view of Pacaya. Suffice to say, this is when the hike starts getting dicey. I’m not the only person in the group who shot a mildly concerned look at the prominent “Danger” sign on our path which we passed by with such speed and enthusiasm from our guide that you’d have thought it said “Disney World, Straight Ahead.”
I was eternally grateful for my 5Q rented walking stick as I picked my way across the lava rock, feeling the strange heat emanating from below grow stronger the longer we hiked over the lava rock. Every few minutes I’d hear a loud popping sound and whip my head to the right to catch site of Pacaya spitting out molten rocks into the sky.
Now to clarify, we were nowhere near close to the top of the volcano, that’s just not possible, but as we approached the highest point tourists can safely go our guide beckoned us still further, past everyone else and lured us with the dangling carrot of actually seeing some red lava.
Steadfastly we trouped along behind our guide, the heat was now palpable; I’m from Florida so it takes a lot of heat to phase me, and I was phased. And alarmed.
But I did want to see the red lava.
So as the group continued to pick our way toward the ledge, the first of us to arrive were given a boost and deposited on the rock ledge—red hot lava clearly in sight but still far away. And though I was content with this viewing, others in the group had begun to venture toward other ledges and our guide scurried away to help them keep from killing themselves in the lava quest.
And as we stood there, the breeze died down and the once relatively bearable heat became suffocating. One of the girls looked down at her ankles—she had ignored the recommendation to wear long pants and her ankles were turning alarming shades of deep red and she was in pain.
Mini pandemonium broke out as the six of us teetered on a jaggedly tiny ledge of dried volcanic lava…
Roasting Marshmallows on Pacaya Volcano
In the midst of our precarious stance on the ledge, David, a fellow adventurer in our group, deftly maneuvered his way over to us. With a firm grasp, he assisted each of us off the scalding platform, leading us away from the unbearable heat.
I hastily retreated, rejoining the larger group of tourists, as my guide carried on, ever-determined to find that elusive “perfect lava viewpoint.”
Once we felt the safety of numbers around us, the atmosphere lightened, and out came the marshmallows. Skewered on long sticks, we assembled little treetops of marshmallows and lowered them into a nearby heat pocket.
It took mere seconds for them to reach a golden-brown nirvana. The surrounding heat was intense enough to toast them to perfection, and as I savored my own humble granola bar, I felt a complex blend of emotions wash over me.
There was awe, certainly, for the unique, visceral experience I had just been through; but alongside it was a deep-seated relief, a contentment born from the realization that my thirst for climbing active volcanoes had been fully quenched.
In that moment, I knew I would never need to embark on such a daring escapade again. Yet, the day’s adventure would forever remain etched in my memory as a testament to the complexities and surprises that travel—especially of the intrepid sort—often brings.
Acatenango Volcano Versus Pacaya Volcano
In recent years, trekking Acatenango has increasingly become de rigeur with intrepid travelers—it’s a popular alternative to the once supreme Pacaya. Which you choose really comes down to fitness level, time, and travel style.
For decades, Pacaya was the go-to destination for anyone in Guatemala interested in a volcanic adventure. It offered relatively easy accessibility and a history of frequent but moderate eruptions—it had all the allure for a thrilling yet manageable day trip from Antigua.
But herein lay the irony: Pacaya has become somewhat of a victim of its own popularity. The trails were (and still are) crowded and the experience is commercialized. If you dream of a quiet morning admiring the grand landscapes, then you won’t find that on Pacaya.
Enter Acatenango. Towering at a height of approximately 13,045 feet, it’s no small feat to conquer this volcano trek. It’s more of a physically challenging hike, but promises fewer crowds and a more authentic experience.
There’s something deeply transformative about this long-term commitment—Acatenango is a trek that necessitates that you dig deep within yourself, both metaphorically and physically, as you ascend its challenging slopes. From the top, you’re privy to one of nature’s grand spectacles: the neighboring Fuego volcano dramatically erupting into the night sky.
Acatenango is the go-to choice for anyone fit enough for it. It’s the far more challenging hike, and also takes longer to execute it round trip. For adventurous travelers, though, it’s the better experience. It’s just way cooler to see the lava in action than some flowing in a few channels on the side of a drab, gray volcano.
On a responsible note, Acatenango offers more opportunities for sustainable tourism. Given its relatively undeveloped state, community-based initiatives are increasingly common, allowing tourism dollars to flow directly into local hands. Travelers who choose this trek are able to tread more lightly on the earth.
Firsthand Tips for Pacaya Day Trippers
Navigating the lava-laden slopes of Pacaya Volcano is both a thrilling and humbling experience that redefines adventure. Let me be clear: This is an outing that comes with its share of perils. It’s not to be taken lightly, especially given that lives were lost on the trail just one week after my fisit.
Having made the trek myself, these insights go beyond the basic advice. This is for any other day-trippers considering the journey.
What to Wear on a Pacaya Hike
The importance of choosing the right attire cannot be overstated. Strong, sturdy hiking boots are non-negotiable. I can vouch for this from personal experience: anything less could literally melt off your feet—that happened to a girl in my group!
As for pants, opt for something durable yet breathable—my high-tech hiking pants were lifesavers. If you’ve got a hiking hat, bring it along; the sun can be relentless.
Also, a moisture-wicking shirt could make the experience significantly more comfortable.
How to Stay Hydrated
Yes, there are vendors along the way selling drinks, but don’t rely solely on them. The physical exertion coupled with the dense dry heat means you’ll need more fluids than you might anticipate.
Bring at least 1.5 liters of water per person. I was grateful for my energy bar (dried fruit works too) to provide a much-needed boost for the hike back down.
Gear
If the thought of navigating this challenging landscape in the dark appeals to you, then by all means, undertake the night hike. But come prepared. A walking stick is not just an accessory; it’s a necessity.
And your flashlight? Make it a high-lumen one with extra batteries. For those opting for daytime adventure like I did, sunglasses with good UV protection and a solid backpack to carry your essentials are a must.
Advice for the Climb
Yes, you’ve hired a guide, but remember, your safety is ultimately in your own hands. When I climbed, I couldn’t help but recall the tragic story of a woman who died while exploring off the beaten path with her guide the following week.
Listen attentively to the person leading you but always gauge the risk for yourself. Your guide might be well-versed in the terrain, but you know your own limits. Sometimes, it pays to be even more cautious than your guide suggests.
Tech Tips
If you plan on capturing the experience, a GoPro with a head strap can offer a hands-free way to document your climb. However, keep the precarious nature of the terrain in mind; this isn’t the place for risky selfie stunts.
Sustainable Travel
Finally, let’s talk about sustainability, an issue close to my heart. If you can, opt for a tour company that follows eco-friendly practices. Also, whatever you bring up with you, make sure you bring back down. The volcano’s natural beauty is its greatest asset; let’s help keep it that way.
Pacaya is an awe-inspiring, adrenaline-pumping experience, but one that demands preparation, respect for the environment, and a keen awareness of one’s own limitations. Equip yourself adequately, heed expert advice but also trust your instincts, and you’re far more likely to have an unforgettable adventure that you can recount with pride, rather than regret.
That’s sort of the theme for all of Guatemala—local experiences can test the safety limits other countries would allow, so just because you can do something doesn’t me you should do it.
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I saw the red lava in Hawaii's Big Island, such a memorable experience. But we didn't roast marshmallows! :D
Amazing that you can see it there too – I reckon that it'd be a fair bit
safer! :-) You'll have to make sure to roast marshmallows at Pacaya if you
ever make it there!
This looks really awesome!! Must be so great to be able to see lava from very near, and toast marshmallow directly at it!! I wonder if this activity is something temporary, or the lava flow will last, so I won't loose my chance if I'm not zooming there right now!
I think you're safe to wait, although the volcano is sometimes more
active than other times for sure, and it would really be sad to get up
there and have it be a “non-lava” day!
That looks great! I want to climb an active Volcano now >_<
You definitely should! It's dangerous to be sure, but that adds to the fun! :-)
It is indeed quite an experience! Thanks for an interesting post and some great pics – perhaps you would like to also share them at trivago? http://www.trivago.co.uk/antigua-guatemala-8407…
Thanks Pierre, when I get onto a more solid internet connection I'll
definitely check that out. :-)
Oh, I have always wanted to do this! Very exciting!